Mirai Live Notes - Sharing Notes from Lectures & Livestreams

Hi community!

My first Mirai Forums post. I’m 21, based in London, and new to the bonsai art form/discipline, and to Mirai Live.

Was wondering how people take notes from the livestreams/lectures on the platform.

I’ve attached a couple examples of my personal notes (done using Goodnotes 5 on the iPad). Feel free to critique them by the way - I want to make sure I get the most out of the lessons so I can correctly apply the knowledge into my practice.

My main question is - is it commonplace to share notes as a community on these forums? If so, please direct me to the right place. And what are some of the different approaches you have to distill the lessons learnt from the liquid gold, that is Ryan’s teachings through this portal?

Thanks, and looking forward to interacting with the community! :blush:

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I don’t believe there is a thread dedicated to this. I know some of us have shared notes related to specific topics. However, I think you may have just started one dedicated to whatever notes folks want to share. I’ll have to scan some of mine as jpgs or similar since the forum does not allow pdfs. I use wide ruled composition books and now have 850+ pages of notes.

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Thanks for the reply!

Wow, that’s incredible, I’d love to read through your notes - it’s amazing to hear the wealth of knowledge you’ve collected from Mirai Live.

Well I’m glad to have hopefully opened up the discussion for what I think is an important topic - hopefully it’ll be a means for us to collaborate, with the end goal of collectively elevating the level of bonsai we are able to develop and refine.

I’ve made a basic plan for the notes I want to start with myself, and probably won’t share my notes until I’ve finished this first list, so as to upload it in one go in some capacity.

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Marty at 850 pages you should self publish your notes as a book “Marty’s Mirai Manifesto”! I will preorder my copy

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I posted this in a separate thread but in your attempt to organize it all, here are my notes on Container Selection.

Objective Container selection

Form: Rectangle(masculine) or Oval (feminine) = (Tree Style) formal & informal upright (Apex is close to the base of the tree not much asymmetry in the tree so the container gives a little asymmetry to compensate for the trees symmetry (Rectangle Masculine) thicker trunk to accommodate the visual mass (Oval Feminine long slender less visual mass)

Form: Round: (constant in all rounds) Apex breaks the lateral boundary of the container Shallow Round (Elegant, Slender, delicate, literate), Contact of the pot with the ground=strong base masculine & allows for more asymmetry Cascade/Semi-Cascade

Form: Lotus: (In between Masculine/Feminine) = (Tree Style) formal & informal upright tree form

Form: Square: Masculine asymmetry (cascade/semi-cascade)

Form: Crescent, Freeform, slab (other): Dictatorial design, where you see this tree growing and why it looks the way it does

Angularity (masculine rugged)

Lobe/floral (feminine curvaceous)

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I keep myself too busy with other projects to either type them up or take pictures to post.

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Just returning to Bonsai after a 15 year layoff due to I’ll health. Having just went into remission from an illness almost no one has heard of I have decided to do some of the things I love. I have kept notes on some of the live content. Some extensive some not so much. Some I tried to go word by word others summarize. I put approximate time marks in the later ones. Here is a list of what I have so far.

Mirai Live Structural Wiring
Azalea Fundamentals with Joe Harris-Mirai Lecture Series
How to Make a Juniper Bonsai
Live Q+A 236
Forum Q+A 19
Watering 101
Stages of Bonsai Development
Shin

I will post my Shin notes below. Complex topic please tell me how I did.i often summarize, hope I understood. Auto Correct and personal misspelling to be expected. Perhaps we should work together to create a accurate series of notes. Ryan’s videos are fantastic but often tons of info on a few words or sentences. Hard to focus with the intensity required not to miss something

Shin
All areas of care and health in the Bonsai environment rely on all the others
Ryan made up
Form a KANJI character to describe a Location in the container responsible for the ultimate health of your plant
Literally n means heart
1. Every bonsai garden has its own vernacular
a. Area of soil immediately under the trunk
b. Tree always builds what is responsible for it’s expenditure of energy first
i. Before the transitional chain can function the roots need to be developed (see nutrition and watering)
1) Once the chain can no longer supply water to the top we max out the height of the plant
ii. The Essential need for Balance of Water and Oxygen
1) This is what is responsible for Ultimate Health
2) Ultimate Health is resistance-heat, pests, drought and wet (all I’ll health and factors)
3) How do we create the balance
4) CREB Cycle (Respiration at Night)
a) Sugars into long term forms of energy
i) Long term energy allows cellular tissues to divide (Growth)
b) Fundamental aspect of Respiration is Photosynthesis+Carbon Dioxide combined with Water creates Sugar through the power of the Sun. breaks molecular bonds,which allows growth (15:49)
c) Respiration takes in Oxygen takes in Oxygen and turns sugar into energy through the molecule of phosphorus
iii. If we don’t have Oxygen in the soil we do not have the capacity to fuel cellular division and growth because we cannot trim sugar into a usable form of energy
iv. Balance of Water and Oxygen creates the environment for root growth to take place
v. Root growth is what allows us to achieve Ultimate Health
vi. If we are in Positive State where all processes are happening
1) Roots are constantly depositing sugars outside the Roots (root Exuddates) (17:47
2) This is where beneficial fungi and bacteria are formed (18:00)
3) These are pulled inside the tree. This biology creates the immune system inside the tree
vii. It is really the daily attention to proper watering that creates the capacity for the roots to create the capacity for the biology to grow
viii. As the base (ramified roots) gets bigger we expand the Shin which is the Epicenter of Health
ix. This expand and expands, It never surprises the width of the trunk (20:16)
1) That is where the Good comes from, that is where the Bad comes from
c. The Shin exists in all environments (in the field, nursery pot, bonsai pot) but does not have the same significance as it does to Bonsai
i. In Bonsai the root system is sculpted-this is unique to Bonsai
ii. Outside of Bonsai the soil allows a much greater Column of Gravity to move the water
iii. Bonsai Container changes all that due to its size
1) To Compensate
a) We increase particle size
b) And use a soil comparison that does not decompose
c) This is where organic materials fail (Sphagnum-pray moss etc) (27:18)
2) Particle size 1/16 to 1/4 inch is used for trees small to big
3) 1/4-1/2 (2mm-6mm) inch for bottom layer to allow Oxygen in
a) More humid areas need bigger
2. Just to understand where the Shin exists and how to grow a healthy Shin in a Bonsai environment depends on knowing it’s location for future growth and health
a. Knowledge of the Shin leads to the particle size we use
b. Composition
i. Pumice (Huga)
1) Holds water maintains Oxygen
ii. Lava (Kirya)
1) All about Oxygen
iii. Akadama
1) Holds water and Oxygen
2) Has CEC (CATION EXCHANGE SITES) to hold nutrients (34:55)
a) Is the organic component of the soil, 7-10%
b) Does not break down passively
c) Breaks down actively with root expansion
iv. To get a scalable tree you need a scalable root system which needs a scalable particle. Currently Akadama is the only one that provides this and organic materials and nutrition holding ability
3. The tree does not natively develop the Shin when put in a Bonsai container with organic soil roots occupy the walls and bottom
4. 6-8 years in a Bonsai pot to develop(Conifers), Akadama quality going down for even the best companies, top soil redress every 2-3 years
5. Once rootbound and Repot we clean up the sides the top and bottom roots leaving the Shin.
a. This is the only way to increase ramification (shorter internodes smaller needles leaves finger and more branches)
b. The Shin is the Epicenter of refinement and health (47:00)

  1. Construction (Repotting)
    • Poor bonsai material has a high degree of organic soil that holds lots of water. Two rules for 95% of our material
    1. Never Bareroot
    2. Always leave untouched
  2. The first time a root system is handled it is at its greatest period of vigor. From that point on we are controlling, reducing and balancing energy.
  3. Poor directly into a small container while it has its greatest vigor
    1. Reduce the roots on the side and then bottom (crossing roots, roots extending past the Shin etc). Or goal is to get the tree into a Bonsai container the first time we touch it (57:07)
    2. Leave the native soil in the Shin
    3. On Field grown stock increase vigor then Repot if not at full visit already
      a. Bonsai soil is a reductive soil used to constrict growth (grow boxes etc)
    4. Do not touch till root system develops fine roots that fill the pot then do second Repot (2-4 years)
    5. Second Repot
      a. Remove 50% of the Shin and use bonsai soil. You will “see” the coarse roots ramify into fine roots. Cycle depends on tree health, vigor and growth rate.
      i. This is where we talk about 6-8 years of sheen building. Of only removed 50% of Shin this can be less. Then a third Repot is necessary.
      ii. Good soil mix-no purely organic materials. Akadama-pumice-lava (60:00)
      iii. 8-10 years to create a refined tree. Be patient it is worth it. Should work on the canopy (not completely patient)
      iv. Even refined trees are not fully bare rooted- fine twig due off may follow
      Maintenance
      • Consistent particle size
      ○ Once again 1/16-1/4 inch particle size. Larger will just let water pass right by without retaining enough
      § Water not enough on edges, roots on outside near too large particle size and too wet near root ball the change of consistent of particle size, the change of consistency in water, the change from the fine to coarse roots system causes the collapse of the whole tree. This accounts for 95% of all tree deaths at this stage.
      • Surface Cleaning: The maintenance of this system relies on the movement of water and Oxygen until the Shin is built
      ○ Too Dressing maintenance helps. In colder climate done with vacuuming every 18-20 months
      ○ Continual cleaning of organic matter is necessary. Don’t let leaves, fertilizer etc build up

Exceptions
• Conifers-all Shin based, no exceptions
○ Exception-Air Layer, only roots initially outside the trunk line not underneath. (Shin may develop 6-8 years). Balance water and Oxygen necessary to AC completed this. Otherwise tree at risk as Shin area rots (1:25:00)
○ First 3-4 years after Air Layer is a period of great transition. Though Shin area water movement paddles in comparison to that in the fine roots, it exists.
• Brushes Deciduous Trees are the only thing we can bare root
○ Yes that are using and losing the most water, thin bark, large leaves there is a chance that you can manipulate the root system of that tree to not have the Shin as the dominant feature of that tree.
§ Not saying you can-there is a chance
□ Trident Maple
□ Japanese Maple
□ Beech
□ Stewartia
□ Are examples of non Shin based trees
□ Maybe Olive
□ Grown and built to depend on fine root system outside of trunk line
§ Durability higher-water movement lower
○ Non Shin based trees in shallow containers often need to be watered every day and put tiles till water runs underneath trunk
§ Necessary for moderate water movement trees-Jen’s, other Maples, quercus
○ It is challenging to take a moderate water mobility tree and cultivate it as a non Shin based tree, it thrives as a Shin based tree. They generally do not have a long life span as an non Shin based tree
• Post WW2 method of cutting a JBP seedling, root hormone, Misting system and if balance right callus forms radial roots develop (volcano shaped JBP)
○ very low success rate
○ More success rate-method died out
§ A Shin based tree wants to stay a Shin based tree

Repair (1:41:30)
• Don’t let things go south. There are indicators of a compromised Shin
○ General yellowing
○ Don’t try and dominate-the tree reflects back what you bring to it
§ Excess creates disaster
• Overall loss of vigor
• Spotted branch flagging/die back
○ Do we need to use a tape dam or tile the pot to create more water mobility to that area
○ Dou we need to tilt pot to drain water
○ Tilt to accomplish both for access and exchange (H2O/O2 balance)
○ Shelter from the rain
• If you spot one of these conditions Repor the next Spring. If these conditions compound more drastic care is needed (treatment above) (1:53:00)
• One of the things done proactively at Mirai-Shin not developed (clay Shin)-surface work chopsticking, vacuuming removing chunks of clay Shin (where it can be accessed) and replacing with soil. The same season that applies to repotting solid to any manipulation of the Shin (1:55:04)
○ This is a Spring season activity
○ Do not create pockets in the clay, work till filled
• This is a major advancement in Bonsai not to have to do a full Repot and have to start over with Shin development
○ Kimura started doing this, it is done yearly at Mirai. Protective Bonsai Mother move.
• The tree is capable of compartmentalizing root rot if we dry it out and Oxygen is allowed in.
○ Balance of H2O/O2 still primary even when we see new growth
○ If you have a tree that is unhealthy with a native Shin you have to get it back to health before you can replace that Shin
§ Move too quickly and that is probably the end of that tree
○ Replacing small amount (30%) of native with agragate is the most that can be done
○ What doesn’t work with a compromised tree is not actions-smaller and smaller actions necessary till health fully restored
• Shin is always enjoying, what works one year may not work the next-don’t overreact. (2:05:00)

Questions-usually what wasn’t caught above. Only going to record new info, see video
1. First questions. The Trees and group have Shin
2. Tilt or geodisk, develop some Shin before placing
3. Mycrorrhizae needs to ex fist in the root, only relationship it can hav for life . Any bacteria in the pot is invasive. (2:14:00)
4. For older and older trees the part of the Shin you need to initially leave untouched is larger and larger
5. Due to defining Akadama quality this year is the first time Mirai has not used our Akadama for it’s Deciduous Trees as a test
6. Change of angle as in Cascade helps open the Shin to not being as much of a health factor. Some of the root structure above the soil becomes a risk factor and can become a bad biology, just had a different often longer timeline
7. Slab plantings. Concave or Convex are their own types of container. Slower timeline as in Cascade. Once on slab don’t want to take off. Top soil maintenance and vacuum otherwise year as other trees.
8. Pigmy species, the smaller container replaced the soil as the size limiting factor. Do not over fertilize.
9. On Mon Shin based trees you need to increase the width of the pot on subsequent Repots. In Japan they put Deciduous Trees in a wooden box to reinvigorate it. Otherwise growth gets smaller and smaller till it can no longer support the tree. Me Kimura used to say, Any way you tip it a Deciduous tree will reach it’s tipping point at 80 years
10. For shohin the timeline changes and get shorter. It is proportional to the size off the tree
11. Uppotting for depth as a last resort might help the health of the tree due to increased water movement. Ryan not a fan of this approach
12. Canopy health of a tree almost a one to one toe in to the Shin. If Apex of tree is suffering and roots in the Shin are sparse or non-existent need to put in a container that allows Shin health
13. In root over rock Shin develops under the rock
14. In repair Fertilization is the least of your concerns. If boogie shown maybe light Fertilization every 8-10 weeks. Can as to the problem. If good biology shown (2:48:00)
15. Repots at Kimura and Mirai, surface most important because water flow most important. They were always coming back up from underneath and inspecting to see if Shin was at a tipping point. With Conifers where there is black that is bad and needs focusing on.
16. Don’t create to much drainage by drilling holes all over. Could create a stagnant flow as opposed to more. Some is good more is better often creates problems
17. Soaking a hydroponic Shin can be the only way to hydrate it. As a systematic method it is a problem. Tilt the pot on a non Shin based tree as a standard technique to hydrate that area.
18. Tropicals are just a higher heart tolerant broad leaf evergreen tree
19. (3:11:00)

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RichB - Welcome to the forum. Very nice set of notes on shin. I saved a copy to augment my own notes. - Marty

Thank you. When you read them please let me know if you feel i missed anything that should be in the notes. I listened to the video multiple times and section beyond my count. I appreciate your response.

Excellent resources guys, one adjacent question I have is wrt the vortex, in which video did Ryan discuss this? I’ve heard him mention it in a number of recent videos but can’t find anything about it in the library.

I figured I would post another set of notes I took along with a preface.i an hoping this can become a community effort to increase the usability of the videos. Here is the lecture on Soil Composition, preface first

These notes are meant to be a supplement to and not a replacement to watching the videos. They are based on my prescriptions and understanding which are probably incomplete and may not line with yours. Spelling will be an issue. I watch the video on my Tablet and take the boys on my Phone. My fingers no longer work well enough that using a computer would work.
As the add say, Your Mileage will Vary
Timestamps are approximate

Understanding Soil-Mirai
Early Fall. September 16, 2020, Wednesday

The soil system is the next frontier in Bonsai science
We’ve talked about the scalability of Akadama
We’ve talked about the substrate of Akadama, Pumice, Lava
• The small container and gravity column that does not move water out, necessitating the use of this substrate as an low organic soil
• Organic soil breaks down becoming ever finer, increase surface area, decrease oxygen, hold water because we don’t have gravity working on that soil system restricting the Balance of Water and Oxygen
• Plant health is dependent on the balance of H2O/ O2
○ This is what gives the ability for roots to grow which gives rise to the production of foliar mass in the upper regions of the tree , needles only come after the production of roots, no needle production the roots aren’t developed to feed the roots
○ We have to have a granular particle size
§ They can’t be too small. The smaller the particle size the more water they hold
□ The smaller the particle size, the more surface area to hold water
○ This dictates the 1/16 to 1/8"particle size. With a drier climate tree (Ponderosa Pine) we pull out the 1/16"to allow for more Oxygen and reduce water holding capacity
§ Darius Barber? suggested worm castings suggested as a replacement for Akadama., contains microbial food plant food, the capacity to end that decomposing process, moving into the nitrate form of Oxygen, a more available form of nitrogen, being the final feeding form of nitrogen can in fact encourage the growth of finer roots and instead of soil particles scaling the roots like we have in Akadama, we have this microbial and nutritional component scaling some of those particles and not necessayating Akadama be a part of it
§ Is this a replacement for Akadama, we don’t know yet. Maybe
§ Anyway we go about it we need to know the soil science first
Water analysis first
• Logan Labs does a comprehensive analysis
○ PH neutral is essential
○ Water hardness- will explain some things
§ Below 6.5 is acidic, Above 6.5 is alkaline do cause certain elements the plant needs to survive to drop out of suspension and become a component no longer usable by the plant
§ Soft water creates bicarbonates in the system (carbonic acid-the fizz in soda)
□ Carbonits are the dissolving of CO2 in the water creating carbonic acid, attacks calcium deposits in the water
□ Hard water 120-180 parts of dissolved CO2, which creates carbonic acid, which disolves the calcium, we see that white stuff, calcium carbonate (residue on hoses, slower nozzles, rim of pots)
® This pulls calcium out of the available region on the cation exchange sites of the soil system, combining them with with the bicarbonates creating calcium bicarbonates
§ Why is calcium bicarbonate an issue
□ Plants need carbon in significant quantities
® Major building block of plant cell walls, transportation systems
® Most of our plants in the Bonsai World are calcium deficient (15:00)
§ Magnesium is probably available to our plants if we have anywhere above 4-5 to 10 parts per million we are well off
§ Mirai well water has a fairly high bicarbonate level this can change how the soil interacted with the plants despite a neutral PH (17:00
§ PH of Mirai soil is 7.3
§ When you analyze the Akadama-Pumice-Lava you get a 6.2 to 6.5 PHof that soil system
□ Your going to have Phosphorus and Potassium in abundance
□ Has 8-10% organic matter
□ Mirai soil has over 15% organic fertilizers
® Extra organic matter comes from organic fertilizers
® We realize we need these organic fertilizers. They break down create smaller particles, more surface holding. They are our cation exchange sites, resource, or cation anion, we put on that organic fertilizer and it breaks down due to microbial activity
§ Soil has PH of 7.3 (18:30)
§ Soil has high calcium 60-70%
□ Yet plants have a calcium deficiency
□ Bicarbonate is the cause
□ The calcium is being pulled from the cautio exchange site to form calcium bicarbonate
○ Neither the soil or water test can tell you what is going on, that is why you need a Saturated Paste Report (21:50)
§ Shows a7.0 P H. That means we are being impacted by but not completely debilitated by the the calcium carbonate or bicarbonate reacting as we water every single time.
§ They have a hardness-of 115 parts per million which is almost completely hard water. By the time the soil and the water interact you are using hard water. Calcium being tied up
§ High concentration of Potassium,p Phosphorus and sodium.
□ They are applying fish emulsion and kelp
§ Potassium and Phosphorus not being used are tying up space so that magnesium, calcium and nitrogen are not available
○ Sulpher is the way we decrease PH. It can come in 2 forms. Elemental Sulphur or Gypsum which is calcium sulfate (25:15)
§ Gypsum will increase the amounts of calculation and sulpher available to our plants
□ When you put gypsum in t the soil or separates calcium and sulpher and the support starts to lock up the bicarbonates
□ This decreases the PH. When PH decreases you open the ability for the calcium in suspension to be used. Sulpher scrubs those cation exchange sites of the phosphorus and potassium that has accounted. Super is a free radical that floats around and attaches to those elements that have built up in the system. Now these drop out of solution and wash out with watering. (30:30)
○ Sulphuric acid and Citric acid can be used to can help change akcalinity and adjust PH. Not being recommended
§ Calcium, magnesium, potassium are having a close proximity on the scale on the Saturated Paste Report
§ Boron, Manganese, Copper, Zinc are all in close proximity
§ Iron is fine, plants need iron
§ Aluminum is high, Aluete is being used to fight water moles. Can combine with other components to impatient root growth and nutrient availability
• Ian’s suggestions (33:25)
○ David De Groot was recommending the traditional Japanese method of rapeseed (or cottonseed, both mentioned) (34:00)
○ They have enough nitrogen but need more sulpher
§ If sulpher concentration is boosted it can decrease potassium on phosphorus which can be beneficial but importantly can release the calcium that is being tied up.
§ How do we reduce the PH from 7,0. When we scrub the surface with Sulpher we free up a hydrogen which will open up the possibility to acidify the soil and reduce the PH (39:00)
○ 2 gallons of soil, 16 grams of gypsum (40:35)
§ Don’t apply all at once, poor application method
□ Use half and do two earrings every seven days
□ When we apply the gypsum we may decrease the magnesium
□ Magnagrow may also be necessary but that will not be the first move
§ These are recommendations to balance nutrient balance
□ Tree does not need this and probably not be necessary
• This does what is necessary at Mirai
○ This develops a framework of how to approach our situation
• In Bonsai we started with chemical fertilizers and moved to organic fertilizers (better). We started not understanding microbial activity to understanding beneficial bacteria and fungi are necessary (47:30)
○ These are the fundamental building blocks of soil. How do we take the next step
• Ryan will test gypsum on five trees. Methodical scientific testing
• End (49:50)

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These notes are meant to be a supplement to and not a replacement to watching the videos. They are based on my prescriptions and understanding which are probably incomplete and may not line with yours. Spelling will be an issue. I watch the video on my Tablet and take the boys on my Phone. My fingers no longer work well enough that using a computer would work.
As the add say, Your Mileage will Vary
Time stamps, when present, in notes are approximate

The Vortex: Mirai Lecture Series

Late Winter. February 11, 2023 (2:14:24)

One of the pillars and practices that have built the Bonsai practice at Mirai (may not find outside Mirai, like Shin)

99% of repotting problems deal with are issues come down to the Shin

Vortext-Ryan dress spiritual on board

There will always be a future for a tree. Why does one tree develop faster, become more asthetic than another.
This pushed me to understand what the timeframe for Bonsai is, what the purpose and intention is. When we hit those critical milestone, how we handle those critical milestones, how this process influences and informes our daily care or daily working etc. (3:40)
• A tree from the field in early development stage, you haven’t struggled or put wire on the tree (4:30)
○ This tree has not entered the Vortex (4:50)
○ A tree does not have to have a bonsai pot to enter the Vortex
• The Vortex begins when we start to atheistically manipulate and try to create some sort of contractual discussion shaped form dialogue of environment, execution of age, species character design through the wiring and promoting process(5:10)
○ We are going to enter the Vortex at our first styling
§ First styling we set the primary structure is the focus, this is where bonsai begins
□ Root work is important but all that is what gets us ready to jump on to the island of three Vortex
§ We are seeing GG those initial lines
§ Development: (setting those initial lines)
1) rebuilding of roots
2) Expansion of foliar mass to create vascular tissue that builds back buds
3) Healing of wounds
4) Elongating branches
5) Thickening of branches
§ We have do to rebuild the roots to get to this point (6:55)
This is when our canopy developmental pieces
We need to expand for backbudding when our hormonal allocation all of a sudden we have that simulation
□ Photosynthetic productivity and efficiency
§ These are our objectives to enter primary styling (7:00)
○ When we enter the Vortex the branch is never going to be thinner or more flexible then it is that day
§ This is the day you make the commitment to set the tone for the tree
□ It must be healthy
□ We only work trees when they are in an energy positive state
□ 2o only work trees when they are absolutely healthy
○ Not all branching in any style is going to be in a unified homonginized stage
○ We wire primary, secondary and sometimes Tertiary-depending on species and the Ramification that we have
§ We try and get the tree to the highest possible product.
□ That is of paramount importance when we enter the Vortex (8:08)
§ That is not too sassy that every tree has to be a finished product
§ Some trees in the primary first styling will be close to final development, it doesn’t mean that there yet
□ There will be pieces that need development
§ We have to let the tree regain its energy system
□ We bent it, we cracked it, we’ve torn it
□ Responsibly, consider it, with a high degree of technique but it goal is to accomplish an asthetic outcome (19:12)
□ Typically this is twelve to eighteen months
○ What we are trying to accomplish is what drives the process for the application of fertilizer
§ We are trying to accomplish the for goals of development outlined above (leave rebuilding of roots off)
○ We don’t prune except for, to transition energy when we have achieved developmental goals
○ First recovery period
§ I don’t mean we don’t prune when we style (10:00)
○ We’re Pruning to make decisions on branches we want
§ We are removing structural flaws
§ We are removing threes that are causing swelling
§ To create negative space to open up for the design
§ To define base to tip
§ To establish our defining branch
§ To to create deadwood and defining features
§ Once these are accomplished what we have left behind, we are not pruning, not punching we are allowing this to transition to its developmental goal
□ We need the back budding to turn to foliar mass
□ First Recovery Period. We have a tree that is grossly oversized not it is time to rebuild-Second Working
○ Second Working
§ Primary is our trunk and the branches emerging from trunk (11:50)
□ We are creating structure and context in design
□ We never refund two structural branches to form a singular pass
§ Scaffolding. (Secondary) The second these branches start to fork and we have biforcation of our Primary this is when we get into our secondary
□ Secondary scaffolding is where we create proportion or scale (14:45)
□ For all of the labor of your initial design, the second working is where we take off the explosive growth and rewire anything that didn’t stick tighten up the structure and emphasize the design (15:20)
□ Remove pieces that have become structural flaws that are filling space and not continuing to design and this is where you start to use secondary scaffolding to change the scale and proportion to a start toccelerate the representation of that larger tree in Monday form
® Fertilization Moderate (quantity)
We want dinner growth, scailability
® Timing could depend on time of year, species, objectives. We don’t want to blow out the grow
® th anymore, we don’t want big growth.
® We are trying to temper our Bonsai practice.
® How do we transition, we Prune
® It is too pune and wire to expand your scaffolding to give a sense of scale.
® Reallocate from tip to interior (17:00)
® With every intention of what are we trying to accomplish
□ There is never a tree that was developed that was finished in one go. There is always Secondary Development, Tertiary development
□ The pruning process is too say, when I achieve that length and thickness, pruning to transition becomes the process to step into that Tertiary or that refinement
§ Refinement (Tertiary)
□ We get to move into a while different realm
□ Tree needs to be in a Bonsai pot at this point (19:50)
® It is almost impossible to keep up with unrefined growth without restriction or capacity to control and adjust the growth
§ Tertiary To achieve a shorter interview a smaller needle or leaf size you have to have it in a Bonsai container (20:30)
§ What makes dominate branches in the apex dominate is the accumulation of hormones
□ Those are accommodated in the tips of the foliar mass and the tips of the roots.
□ If we think all the tips of the foliar masses are generating the same hormones at the same time, how do they become lopsided over time
□ The ones that transpire the most is interesting the most Auxin communication with the root tip and hence that becomes the direct connection (20:50)
□ Coarse branching and coarse rooting create more hormones and we start to get a lopsided distribution of strength, the strong get stronger, the weak get weaker
□ The way we control that is by confining and constricting the environment the tree is contained in
□ These are the foundations of Bonsai where we have that initial context of environment or culture (Japanese model) , I have that scaffolding that we built for scale to give that representation of the larger tree in Monday scale
□ Now I going to balance energy
® We want the same strength from the tip to the interior from the top to the bottom (21:50)
○ The first move in Bonsai is not to control it is to give a big push in growth and push in direction of asthetics and to let that tree respond.
§ You nudge the tree at this point and see if it likes it, respond.
□ This is the relationship we start to form that only time can create
□ The impact sx and influence influence of time
○ 70% or more is on the stage you are in
§ 70% of your tree can be decandled or needle plucked, the other 30% we fertilize, prune and cater to the refinement
§ The hats the transition of energy that fuels further development of the pieces that are in a secondary or developmental stage
○ We are in a yearly/strength/growth management cycle
A running Juniper in refinement, we are cutting it back in the,late Spring, mid summer max, we need to do refinement pruning soon that so we are not causing a robust push out
We need to do dinner pruning so we don’t and too much energy to cause to robust a growth push out
There might be weaker branches we are not pruning but we are handling the entirety of that canopy system to distribute energy, manage the accumulation of strength, we are decandleing and needle plucking our black pines then shoot selecting in the fall and needle plucking again to balance. (25:20)
§ We are punching our short needle single flush pines, and then we are going to post flush harden, pruning and shoot selecting then we leave then to maintain themselves for the rest of the year
§ We are pruning some of our elongating species, we are pruning our Larches three to four times a year on that cadence to get the highest Ramification, we are defoliating our Deciduous trees
□ We are doing the maintenance on an annual basis that allowed this input over accelerated growth to continue
§ We may unwire and rewire, we may unwire and not have to rewire. We may unwire and only rewire certain things, we may not wire at all.
§ We may be stacking wire on our on our second styling or stacking wire on our last major structural piece of work (26:00)
○ Rounding The Vortex
§ Tree will be going through about three years of yearly maintenance
§ As we progress on the design we should be wiring less and less because more of it is holding
§ Occasionally we have to remove a branch because it is causing a structural flaw
§ Five years to reach the first iteration of design for pines
□ Time to take action?
□ When the canopy has grown larger than the properties of the trunk that gives the material value
□ You are going to take the tree to the level it can achieve
® Make or break time for your Bonsai
□ It lost that thing that made it asthetic
□ As we fertilize and Care for the tree it takes the symmetrical shape of youth and now it’s at that stage to take the next step
® If we have not worked on wiring branches hanging out of that maturity back into that maturity and maintain that age, we are going to pull that tree out of the Vortex
® We are going to prune some branches, wire out down nice and flat again and suck all that time investment out of that tree and pull it back to stage one (30:30)
® This is the story of Bonsai in America in the early days at least. When you see the Kokufu-ten you see that this can be handled
◊ Understand we don’t have to wire everything, bare root every time we Repot
□ If we don’t want to take the tree out of the Vortex, we have to age the design
® How do you get the design ready to be aged, you cannot age the design until the design is ready to be aged.
® You develop, build the scaffolding, balance and transition the energy, refine, the tree grows and grows till it looks young again
§ • This cycle of style and reset is not what Ryan signed up for as a bonsai professional

• Progression of age over time
	○ At 50 years the tree is going to look young again (triangular for pines, lollipop or flame for Conifers
	○ We get to 250 years of age we see a greater degree of asymmetry
	○ 500 years we've lost branches here and there
	○ 1000 years old we lost more of the trees structure
	○ 2000 years more lost
	○ 3000 years fallen over foliar mass that may have built another tree (34:30)
	○ Think of each of these steps in time as when you have rounded the Vortex

What is the verbal definition of aging
1. Greater degree of asymmetry
2. Greater degree of negative space
3. Increasing quality of reminents (deadwood)
○ Foliar heaven in youth the above in age
• This allows us to free ourselves, to not trying to style the tree to look static (as first designed)
• If Bonsai trees are going to survive and live a long life and tell a story, nature in miniature you need to agree it as in nature
○ Japanese post WWII settled into that juvenile styled form
○ This is Bonsai as we know it today
○ Extricate yourself from this tradition and you are a Bonsai practiconer who is in the modern era who has the knowledge outside of that context of the 80-90-2000’s
§ As long as we cultivate a tree with everything it needs it doesn’t get older and older it reverse to youth
□ Yes have to grow out they are dying
§ I am going to embrace those removal of pieces. I am not going to cut the branch off I am going to leave deadwood
§ Create negative space
§ Enhance degree of asymmetry
□ You push the length
□ And shift the apex father from center
○ When we take the defining branch off this is the beginning of Western Bonsai
§ This is when we tap into post teenage years design.
• To progress
○ you build on those prices that are slightly immature and you age them
○ You expand their scaffolding you lay that out, you gain that scale and proportion with this new asymmetrical proportion and you allow that to further refined and develop
○ You refine that over annual maintenance with that new distribution (44:06)
○ This timeframe as we go further into the Vortex gets shorter and shorter

• You have to understand you have to build the meat on the bone to leave a lasting remenent
• You have to understand you have to expand the girth of the tree to hold the continual gester of asymmetry becoming more and more extreme
• You've got to harness the understanding of design, pad size formation-proportion-scaffolding-species nuance-environmental context to continue to execute a believable and sustainable shape and size of the tree to root to size of container dynamic that exists
• As we progress into the Vortext we never get away from the process of Bonsai in doing so

When based things happen you will have to go backwards in the cycle and lose time
	Despite the fact that you have lost time in the development of the canopy, the tree may have gained age
	That is the process of humans acting as mature in this practice of Bonsai
	Kimura has two pictures on his wall, Pouline Olive trees and Bristlecone Pines. Had the same shape after people pruning the olives over 3000 years and nature doing the shaping

• Design and influencing moments
• Not every piece of material can become an ancient tree
○ It can grow into an ancient tree over time-past your lifetime
○ The reason for objectivity in design is to give the best chance to avoid repetition of pattern and to make the best of unique material it is also to give ourselves the capacity to create the oldest insinuation of that tree
• As you progress through the age cycle you need the characteristics at each stage to form the characteristics of the next and to the last (49:40)
• You can increase the value of the material by stopping at a stage because it has the features that allow it to reach greater age
• Realizing you have limitations in the material frees you from having that there is something in the process of the Vortext aging the tree but maybe I stop here
○ If you don’t know the asthetic of the Vortext you are the limitation
§ You have to continue to raise your level
• Do we all need to follow the same goals and objectives, the same artist statement (Michael Hagedorn), no
○ I might not be trying to do what everybody else is doing, or I might want to do what everyone else is doing. You have that freedom, that is the medium of Bonsai
• Once the technique of the action is equal what is the asthetic limited response That is a discussion worth having (54:20)
• The Vortext does not only apply to the canopy of the tree you have to rebuild the roots and check internode length
• The roots are on their own journey, it is too get the tree into a suitable container
• We never Bareroot and leave some maybe material (soil)
○ Second repotting we remove the Shin then rebuild the Shin
• In styling at this point you have a fully developed root system with 50% is the water conductivity needed to support it
• This is as much about the root system as it is about the branching system
• If we throw of the balance and consistent what was a good soil can become a bad soil, what was a healthy Shin can become a bad Shin, what was a strong tree can become a weak tree.
• We have a nessessetry to continue to grow and evolve our skulls
• The trees survive in spite of not because of what we do to them
• What are you trying to say, what do you accept, what can the material afford and do you understand the process (59:40)

Moving out of the Vortex

1. We can wire out age
2. You can mishandle roots and climb right out of the Vortex
3. Impatience
4. Prune

How do we bridge the gap of artificial and natural

Understanding each point of it influences all of the other components and all of the other approaches and practices of Bonsai

All of this connects, and if your going to take this past a Japanese paint by numbers of the Japanese model which is not bad but the material you have in front of you might not afford that asthetic or you might reduce the value to accomplish a preconceived bottom

If you are trying to do Bonsai at a higher level you have to understand the totally of this concept

That is the Correct (1:14:25)

Questions- only those that add something new. Once again, my perceptions, watch the video
Small subset

Yamadori vs Nursery stock
Collection vs repotting
Both are the most extreme they will experience
Your time in a collected container should be limited to three years max

A initial design on a Yamadori and a redesign of a nature tree are not the same thing (1:22:30)

The videos on styling the same species is to show how to approach the initial styling dependent on the material

This is the depth of the artform. This is why someone can study this for their entire life and will end with more questions than they started with

Single Flush, Long Needle Pine- Why do we stress do much that we got to build in a Pine, specifically long needle single flush Pine. You’ve got to get the needle mass expanded to build the vascular tissue so you get back budding forming after initial styling. That builds the bug it buds that forms the shoot that becomes the branch that gives you the capacity to design you Ponderosa Pine. The we have a water conductivitylonger you wait the more bark that forms the less likely that back bud is likely to form the shoot that becomes the branch the less capacity you have to design ancient. This is what forms you tree 20-30-60 years down the road (1:36:00)

Second Repotting of Yamadori Risk- we have to know that when we remove the native soil from the root ball and replace it with agragate soil stats water, because the roots moved out to the domestic system after first Repot, out is also looser and unscaled. We have a water conductivity instance between the se two. This runs the risk of this domestic system running sour, because it is were and does not have as much oxygen. That is why we need to vacuum the soil surface on an annual basis till the Shin and domestic souls become harmonized. Third Repotting

Shohin can’t stay Shohin, they grow. Of a tree isn’t growing it is dying

Thickness is not a measure of age
Late Winter. February 11, 2023 (2:14:24)

One of the pillars and practices that have built the Bonsai practice at Mirai (may not find outside Mirai, like Shin)

99% of repotting problems deal with are issues come down to the Shin

Vortext-Ryan dress spiritual on board

There will always be a future for a tree. Why does one tree develop faster, become more asthetic than another.
This pushed me to understand what the timeframe for Bonsai is, what the purpose and intention is. When we hit those critical milestone, how we handle those critical milestones, how this process influences and informes our daily care or daily working etc. (3:40)
• A tree from the field in early development stage, you haven’t struggled or put wire on the tree (4:30)
○ This tree has not entered the Vortex (4:50)
○ A tree does not have to have a bonsai pot to enter the Vortex
• The Vortex begins when we start to atheistically manipulate and try to create some sort of contractual discussion shaped form dialogue of environment, execution of age, species character design through the wiring and promoting process(5:10)
○ We are going to enter the Vortex at our first styling
§ First styling we set the primary structure is the focus, this is where bonsai begins
□ Root work is important but all that is what gets us ready to jump on to the island of three Vortex
§ We are seeing GG those initial lines
§ Development: (setting those initial lines)
1) rebuilding of roots
2) Expansion of foliar mass to create vascular tissue that builds back buds
3) Healing of wounds
4) Elongating branches
5) Thickening of branches
§ We have do to rebuild the roots to get to this point (6:55)
This is when our canopy developmental pieces
We need to expand for backbudding when our hormonal allocation all of a sudden we have that simulation
□ Photosynthetic productivity and efficiency
§ These are our objectives to enter primary styling (7:00)
○ When we enter the Vortex the branch is never going to be thinner or more flexible then it is that day
§ This is the day you make the commitment to set the tone for the tree
□ It must be healthy
□ We only work trees when they are in an energy positive state
□ 2o only work trees when they are absolutely healthy
○ Not all branching in any style is going to be in a unified homonginized stage
○ We wire primary, secondary and sometimes Tertiary-depending on species and the Ramification that we have
§ We try and get the tree to the highest possible product.
□ That is of paramount importance when we enter the Vortex (8:08)
§ That is not too sassy that every tree has to be a finished product
§ Some trees in the primary first styling will be close to final development, it doesn’t mean that there yet
□ There will be pieces that need development
§ We have to let the tree regain its energy system
□ We bent it, we cracked it, we’ve torn it
□ Responsibly, consider it, with a high degree of technique but it goal is to accomplish an asthetic outcome (19:12)
□ Typically this is twelve to eighteen months
○ What we are trying to accomplish is what drives the process for the application of fertilizer
§ We are trying to accomplish the for goals of development outlined above (leave rebuilding of roots off)
○ We don’t prune except for, to transition energy when we have achieved developmental goals
○ First recovery period
§ I don’t mean we don’t prune when we style (10:00)
○ We’re Pruning to make decisions on branches we want
§ We are removing structural flaws
§ We are removing threes that are causing swelling
§ To create negative space to open up for the design
§ To define base to tip
§ To establish our defining branch
§ To to create deadwood and defining features
§ Once these are accomplished what we have left behind, we are not pruning, not punching we are allowing this to transition to its developmental goal
□ We need the back budding to turn to foliar mass
□ First Recovery Period. We have a tree that is grossly oversized not it is time to rebuild-Second Working
○ Second Working
§ Primary is our trunk and the branches emerging from trunk (11:50)
□ We are creating structure and context in design
□ We never refund two structural branches to form a singular pass
§ Scaffolding. (Secondary) The second these branches start to fork and we have biforcation of our Primary this is when we get into our secondary
□ Secondary scaffolding is where we create proportion or scale (14:45)
□ For all of the labor of your initial design, the second working is where we take off the explosive growth and rewire anything that didn’t stick tighten up the structure and emphasize the design (15:20)
□ Remove pieces that have become structural flaws that are filling space and not continuing to design and this is where you start to use secondary scaffolding to change the scale and proportion to a start toccelerate the representation of that larger tree in Monday form
® Fertilization Moderate (quantity)
We want dinner growth, scailability
® Timing could depend on time of year, species, objectives. We don’t want to blow out the grow
® th anymore, we don’t want big growth.
® We are trying to temper our Bonsai practice.
® How do we transition, we Prune
® It is too pune and wire to expand your scaffolding to give a sense of scale.
® Reallocate from tip to interior (17:00)
® With every intention of what are we trying to accomplish
□ There is never a tree that was developed that was finished in one go. There is always Secondary Development, Tertiary development
□ The pruning process is too say, when I achieve that length and thickness, pruning to transition becomes the process to step into that Tertiary or that refinement
§ Refinement (Tertiary)
□ We get to move into a while different realm
□ Tree needs to be in a Bonsai pot at this point (19:50)
® It is almost impossible to keep up with unrefined growth without restriction or capacity to control and adjust the growth
§ Tertiary To achieve a shorter interview a smaller needle or leaf size you have to have it in a Bonsai container (20:30)
§ What makes dominate branches in the apex dominate is the accumulation of hormones
□ Those are accommodated in the tips of the foliar mass and the tips of the roots.
□ If we think all the tips of the foliar masses are generating the same hormones at the same time, how do they become lopsided over time
□ The ones that transpire the most is interesting the most Auxin communication with the root tip and hence that becomes the direct connection (20:50)
□ Coarse branching and coarse rooting create more hormones and we start to get a lopsided distribution of strength, the strong get stronger, the weak get weaker
□ The way we control that is by confining and constricting the environment the tree is contained in
□ These are the foundations of Bonsai where we have that initial context of environment or culture (Japanese model) , I have that scaffolding that we built for scale to give that representation of the larger tree in Monday scale
□ Now I going to balance energy
® We want the same strength from the tip to the interior from the top to the bottom (21:50)
○ The first move in Bonsai is not to control it is to give a big push in growth and push in direction of asthetics and to let that tree respond.
§ You nudge the tree at this point and see if it likes it, respond.
□ This is the relationship we start to form that only time can create
□ The impact sx and influence influence of time
○ 70% or more is on the stage you are in
§ 70% of your tree can be decandled or needle plucked, the other 30% we fertilize, prune and cater to the refinement
§ The hats the transition of energy that fuels further development of the pieces that are in a secondary or developmental stage
○ We are in a yearly/strength/growth management cycle
A running Juniper in refinement, we are cutting it back in the,late Spring, mid summer max, we need to do refinement pruning soon that so we are not causing a robust push out
We need to do dinner pruning so we don’t and too much energy to cause to robust a growth push out
There might be weaker branches we are not pruning but we are handling the entirety of that canopy system to distribute energy, manage the accumulation of strength, we are decandleing and needle plucking our black pines then shoot selecting in the fall and needle plucking again to balance. (25:20)
§ We are punching our short needle single flush pines, and then we are going to post flush harden, pruning and shoot selecting then we leave then to maintain themselves for the rest of the year
§ We are pruning some of our elongating species, we are pruning our Larches three to four times a year on that cadence to get the highest Ramification, we are defoliating our Deciduous trees
□ We are doing the maintenance on an annual basis that allowed this input over accelerated growth to continue
§ We may unwire and rewire, we may unwire and not have to rewire. We may unwire and only rewire certain things, we may not wire at all.
§ We may be stacking wire on our on our second styling or stacking wire on our last major structural piece of work (26:00)
○ Rounding The Vortex
§ Tree will be going through about three years of yearly maintenance
§ As we progress on the design we should be wiring less and less because more of it is holding
§ Occasionally we have to remove a branch because it is causing a structural flaw
§ Five years to reach the first iteration of design for pines
□ Time to take action?
□ When the canopy has grown larger than the properties of the trunk that gives the material value
□ You are going to take the tree to the level it can achieve
® Make or break time for your Bonsai
□ It lost that thing that made it asthetic
□ As we fertilize and Care for the tree it takes the symmetrical shape of youth and now it’s at that stage to take the next step
® If we have not worked on wiring branches hanging out of that maturity back into that maturity and maintain that age, we are going to pull that tree out of the Vortex
® We are going to prune some branches, wire out down nice and flat again and suck all that time investment out of that tree and pull it back to stage one (30:30)
® This is the story of Bonsai in America in the early days at least. When you see the Kokufu-ten you see that this can be handled
◊ Understand we don’t have to wire everything, bare root every time we Repot
□ If we don’t want to take the tree out of the Vortex, we have to age the design
® How do you get the design ready to be aged, you cannot age the design until the design is ready to be aged.
® You develop, build the scaffolding, balance and transition the energy, refine, the tree grows and grows till it looks young again
§ • This cycle of style and reset is not what Ryan signed up for as a bonsai professional

• Progression of age over time
	○ At 50 years the tree is going to look young again (triangular for pines, lollipop or flame for Conifers
	○ We get to 250 years of age we see a greater degree of asymmetry
	○ 500 years we've lost branches here and there
	○ 1000 years old we lost more of the trees structure
	○ 2000 years more lost
	○ 3000 years fallen over foliar mass that may have built another tree (34:30)
	○ Think of each of these steps in time as when you have rounded the Vortex
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These notes are meant to be a supplement to and not a replacement to watching the videos. They are based on my prescriptions and understanding which are probably incomplete and may not line with yours. Spelling will be an issue. I watch the video on my Tablet and take the boys on my Phone. My fingers no longer work well enough that using a computer would work.
As the add say, Your Mileage will Vary
Time stamps, when present, in notes are approximate

Bonsai Aftercare: Mirai Lecture Series
Late Spring May 6,2023. (2:28:32)

Even as we talk about the Concepts of Bonsai-Everything goes back to the Balance of Water and Oxygen
• Ultimate Health is created by the Balance of Water and Oxygen
○ Resistance-
§ Heat
§ Cold
§ Draught
§ Wetness
§ Actions of Bonsai
□ Repotting, styling,etc
○ The root system is the Epicenter and the source of our trees immunity
§ We can look at the biological microbial highways and their connections with the indo and ecto environment and how they going out and finding resources and how that connection point with the biology of the root mass starts to create that initiation of the enzymatic reaction that allows a tree to compartilize decay, stop an embolism, respond to a pathogen, insects (6:00)
○ Balance of Water and Oxygen gives us the environment in the shallow aggregate soil system which is closer to hydroponics than consistent horticultural development growth in the tree and nursery industries etc.
○ We are starting to talk about a hydroponic Cultivation that gives us the environment that facilitates and creates the opportunity for root growth to occur (6:30)
§ Roots come before needles
○ It’s how we start to build a tree and how we start to form a system
○ As we expand which season comes first
○ For an established tree fall comes first
○ Spring is a response to the vascular productive that we accumulated on the needle mass that was created over the Spring season on the strength of the vascular energy
§ The vascular productivity in the fall determines the needle mass in Spring (8:11)
□ It has to create resources to sustain plus add. The add happens in the fall
® Stored energy, sugar and starches
® Trunk girth
§ To dictate, determine and drive that growth is the most important thing we do in Bonsai
○ If I don’t have a root to take in that nutrition it doesn’t matter what type of nutrition I supply
○ Roots can be generated in poor soil quality, can be generated in abnormal conditions as long as the Balance of Water and Oxygen is O.K.
○ Mr Kimura always used to say , There is no poor soil on Bonsai, only poor Horticulture that can’t accommodate the characteristics of that soil. (9:55)
○ If you can learn how to establish a Balance of Water and Oxygen in the containerized environment, you are already on your way towards creating the backbone and the system to establish that ultimate health
□ We need more Oxygen,
□ We need control of the water that is held for the tree.
□ We need something binding nutrition that can hold it’s structure.
□ This is what gave rise to Pumice-Lava-Akadama
• We are starting to build an understanding of After Care
○ And how we conduct ourselves to help a tree through processes that we perform in Bonsai for no other reason than to execute and explore the asthetic and contractual implications of that visual representation (11:17)

BALANCE OF WATER AND OXYGEN is your Number One Consideration. Constantly Forever Across Every Consideration, Every Season every Reason, Every Application
Nothing else happens. How do I get a tree to grow more, how do I get a tree to back bud, what do I do when my tree is not doing well. BALANCE OF WATER AND OXYGEN. It is the answer to every question

Nothing else happens in the AfterCare of a tree, Care of a tree, cultivation, design, repotting, nutrition of a tree without a Balance of Water and Oxygen. Nothing else matters

If we do not digest this piece of information then we cannot have this Conversation
It is the most complex aspect of what we do in the cultivation of these tiny trees in a confined environment

	We have to consider everything, season, species soil, work in tree, foliar mass ... (13:34)

It is the number one way to be culturing the vascular tissue that supplies, supports and cultivating that supplies supports and creates immunity for all recovery, all response, all progression of the Bonsai Model (14:20)

Root Production Gives Rise to Foliar Mass which Feeds Root Production
How do you prepare your tree for any type of activity-Build the foliar mass
Recover-Leave the foliar mass alone, let it photosynthesyze
If we understand the indications that the energy system is rebuilt and the timing of the year and we can pull that tree back into the Bonsai Model advance it on the Bonsai Journey

Most questions, my leaves are burnt, should I cut, pluck, them all off, prune my tree. My tree is unhealthy should I root and trim all my unhealthy roots. Should I do a major action on the tree the answer is NO. Aftercare is not about doing some action to your tree.

1. Aftercare is About manipulating the environment with intention and a productive thought of heading off the things that can detracct from the acceleration of the health of your tree. (Root growth, foliar production) 
2. Vascular productivity is what gives rise to the foliar mass
3. The foliar mass is what captures the suns energy and photosynthesizes and produces sugars and starches that cause the cellular division that gives rise to zylem, pholem that gives rise to terminal buds, more needle mass that gives rise to root growth. Balance of a Water and Oxygen drives this whole process and makes it happen.
	a. Without this Balance that last little bit of that sugar and starches that goes down into that root system will never create a root, it will sit at the end of that root and stockpile and stir up and cause abnormal thickening until that initial that root can germinate (17:16)

Factors that go into aftercare
1. Watering
2. Nutrition
3. Temp
4. Season
a. Sun exposure
b. Wind exposure
5. Foliar Mass
6. Species
7. Physiology
8. Then we can determine the Facility

Repotting
• We interfere with the root system far more intimately than any other endeavor in the horticultural model.
○ We are taking off the surface
○ We are invading the Shin
○ We are replacing the soil
○ We are breaking up the fine matted roots that are hydrating that tree
• And I’m the fat instance we are looking at Spring. Spring equals
○ Shorter days
○ Cooler temperatures
○ We might have a piggybacking production of new roots in the white tips we see when we Repot in the Spring theater are the vascular product of the vascular activity that has been taking place with the momentum of the fall season across the Winter we recognize that tree are consistently accumulating, with species specific tolerances, trees start moving those sugar and starches up the trunk after the Winter Solstice
§ The tree starts loading those sugar and starches up the trunk, branches and terminal buds to begin that long migration of that lopsided sugar starch loading in the vacule with limited to no water so that it doesn’t freeze in the colder temperatures
□ Water moves in, delivers the sugars and starches to the tips and low and behold, when we start spending that energy, and we reduce our Winter tolerance, and we start foliar production. We start to recognize that route growth pass the product of the tail end of Fall and over the Winter and the accumulation of these resources and their tissue and all of that abundant storage.
○ I realize that if I spend that energy in Spring, I realize that Spring is all about foliar production, producing those photosynthetic panels
§ When the days are getting longer and the temperatures are getting higher ramping up increasing metabolic activity
• When we look at the kids model in terms of the philosophical justification of this theory. The he tree rings show a minor amount of vascular activity in the Spring and a major amount of vascular activity in the Fall (25:00)
○ This is what shows the identifiable thickening of the tree ring
• What does this mean about try your threshold for success when repotting in the Spring
○ It means you have to save enough roots on the tree to deliver those sugar and starches to the foliar mass and continue to hydrate that is produced upon those roots
○ When we do a repot where
§ we see a tree stop growing
§ foliar production does not exist,
§ foliage is lost
○ These are all physiological indications of your aftercare
§ The tree is telling you I don’t have enough to sustain and add
§ If it is not losing anything it is saying I only have enough to sustain
§ If it starts to lose things, I don’t have enough to sustain
□ To what degree and how do we fix it
□ Only path to recovery, foliar mass providing sugar and starches, providing correct aftercare and Justin till we get to the time of the year where we can create new root mass through the
BALANCE OF WATER AND OXYGEN (26:40)
○ If we don’t understand that this cycle takes place in the fall than we can really misinterpret what is physically happening in the tree that is driving the presence of that productivity and the way we handle that tree afterwards (27:35)
• Post repotting, the most important of aftercare, Balance of Water And Oxygen
○ You have impaired the tree
§ You have taken a system the last had set up a vascular system to support an expansion leaf mass because the tree continually wants to bigger (if your not growing, you’re dying)
§ We know it’s fine to get bigger,
§ We want accept it to get bigger.
§ We want to use the mechanisms of Bonsai to manage, balance and achieve an asthetic result while accepting it must get bigger
• After you have put a tree in a pot, chopsticked it, anchored it in the pot and saturated it and washed out the fines, what is the next step
○ Let it dry out too let the Oxygen back in at
○ Oxygen getting back into that system allows compartmentalization of those
§ Breaks
§ Tears
§ Cuts
§ Scratches
§ And wounds in that root system
○ Compartmentalizarion of the damage creates a callus from the sugars and starches that are starting to be produced because we recognize that by the time we are repotting sugars and starches are simulating the presence of foliar potential as well as phootosynthetic conductivity of that water conductivity that allows us to heal those wounds
○ That first watering (Balance of Water and Oxygen) could be that stimuli for that minimal production of Spring Vascular production of new roots, that helps your tree recover from that repotting (29:29)
• Keeping a repotted tree too wet
• The tree will not produce new roots
• The tree will not compartmentalize cuts breaks years and damage
• The cuts, breaks years and damage will atrophy more
• We have a root system in recession
• What happens with a root mass in recession
○ We start to lose leaves, not enough energy to sustain
○ Establish Balance of Water and Oxygen (38:45)
We also say Repot Aftercare is about changing a condition where the tree is staying to wet or we supplement the trees capacity to compartmentalize and supplement those roots
Good watering
Change the pot angle to remove excess water (75-80 degrees F)
80 degrees best for root growth
90 degrees starts to be to high (shade to cool)
If we can speed up metabolism to drive compartmentalization and encourage root growth we can help that tree
Heat Mat
If a tree doesn’t need bottom heat don’t give it
Pulls energy from foliar mass
If needed can be the best solution

Water Tension Theory-see watering 101
Once you have pushed past the boundary of root reduction that tree has
Find the sweet spot, that line
When you are putting a tree into a small pot you are walking that line (Bonsai asthetics)
After repotting we avoid
1. Intense sun
2. Heavy Wind
a. Foliar Misting stops the evapetation so that the intense amount of tension or on that water chain can be erased
b. This slows down but does not stop the tension
c. Could be the thing that hydrates the foliar mass enough to create enough sugar and starches to compartmentalize the wound and allow that Balance of Water and Oxygen to produce the new roots that allow the tree over normal conditions in time to hydrate itself
d. Misting if understood correctly and applied can have a major effect on a tree on the extreme edge of that line
e. Misting is not done in a continum it is something we can do soon after repotting to ease the tension after severe root trimming to ease the tension
3. How do we know if it doesn’t need Misting
i. Do we have a healthy root Mass
1) Did we leave a portion untouched, not bare rooted
ii. Is the tree stable in the environment
iii. Did not over chopstick
Fine do not mist
Depending, can be less cautious

  1. The more aggressive we are the more we up the ante of Aftercare post Repot (39:25)
    1. Most 7-10 days. That is how long it takes for me roots to develop
    2. Missing can be the thing that destroys a Repot by keeping the soil saturated
      Repotting Aftercare of all about limiting the stress and the Rapid Loss Of Water In The Foliar Mass

Any Bonsai practitioner in the Repotting season benefits on the repotting season from the use of a Greenhouse (40:40)
1. To cut the Wind
2. To control the Sun
3. And to reduce the loss of Water after an impediment to the roots after repotting till the tree gets it’s feet back under it

What does it mean to recover from repotting
Start repoting restritions
Buds swelling, stop caring about the Balance of Water and Oxygen. NEVER. (42;10)

Light Repot
1. Buds Elongate
	a. Yes
	b. Maybe don't need to see buds elongate

Moderate Repot
2. Buds Elongate
	a. Move into external environment
		i. Maybe. Protection from wind

Severe Repot
3. Buds Elongate
	a. Move to external environment
		i. No. i and going to wait till they start to open
		ii. Wait till see dependent Belle mass
		iii. Leaves just beginning to open

AFTERCARE-
1. We need to look at every point of the energy system
2. Every point of the Species Nuance
3. Every point of the severity of the Repor
a. What Repot was it
b. What was done
c. How did we handle it
Then we can start to judge (43:00)

7-10 days good health next step
1. More exposed environment, morning sun
7-10 days for response
1. Move to Sun and wind
7-10 days things get funky
1. I can mist
You can Deduce the Technique and the Action Appropriate for your tree (45:30)

Post repot, when can I fertilize.
Can I do that-NO
IF YOU REALLY WANT TO DESTROY A TREE THAT YOU REPOTTED-FERTILIZE IT
The tree is feeding itself through photosynthesis
Can Kimura fertilize a Black Pine after a repot, Yes
Are you a Bonsai master with 40 years experience in the same environment?
Fertilization does not need to begin post repot until we see the growth of our trees start to harden off
A light application probably late Summer early Fall after Spring Repot

STYLING
definitely season specific
Spring-structural
Big bend
Risking big breaks
Possibly reducing vascular tissue
This is when we need to be very very concrete in our understanding
Peak energy positive before growth
1. Early Spring
2. Early Fall
1) Yes that are structural styled in early Spring far outpace those styled in early Fall
2) Mirai has done bat amount of Structural work in early Fall
1. But then comes Winter
Early Spring I have tissue damage what is the AfterCare
Heat of Summer
Early fall what is the AfterCare
Cold of Winter
What would lead me want to do a structural styling
A tree that is growing with tremendous Vigor
I am going to pull in it’s energy system
I am going to reduce 40-60% of the branches to make the structural decisions that create the space that allows me to set those primary pieces coming off the trunk or maybe even the tree itself
NOT A TREE I REPOTTED (57:20)
It’s a tree that’s been prepared post collection
Nursery stock poured and recovered it strength through the year including Fall. Do next Spring. If it’s still not vigorous wait till the Fall
Make Sure The Energy System is stocked

	Technique is constantly being hooked to push these timeframes. If you give yourself a healthy tree that's prepared for the operation, you can fudge on technique and capacity.
	This is where a beginner with a healthy tree horticulturally and appropriate timing can get away with a lesser degree of technique

After first watering  we need to establishe is the Balance of Water and Oxygen
	After removing foliar mass soil will remain wetter
		If you are not changing water habits post styling this is why Post Styling AfterCare has already failed
			This is why developing multi flush pines mid summer causes damage to Bonsai

Every aspect of success post styling is proactively heading off the issues that come with the season you’re approaching and adjusting you Water and Oxygen Balance in the containerized environment to compensate for that loss of follow mass and draw water through that system

(1:03:30) Ryan discusses in detail concepts on Styling and the issues caused already discussed above. WATCH

We can do a structural styling 6 weeks prior to first anticipated freeze
○ . Allows compartmenalize the damage
○ Allows tree to readjust it’s navigation system in the form is Hormones
○ Larger Foliar Mass you need to protect in the cold don’t allow it to freeze
How do we handle a break (still connected)
We have to apply liquid cut paste
You have a break
Never bend it back
You lose the bend you just made
Cause greater tissues damage
Use liquid cut paste on the entire area followed by parafilm
We want to stop the loss of water from the bark that still exists
That tissue in that constricted space needs support
It will never heal, it will be a break for the rest of the trees life
You have to stop the dehydration of the tissue that still exists so that water can flow to the that foliar mass
Two most important thing to do
1. Seal the break to allow for new cellular division
2. And protect that that vascular tissue that still exists from excessively transpiring so that you give that bud at the tip of the branch the best chance of success
Do not need to mist in the Fall

Broadleaf Deciduous
leaf drop best Time to style
This is the one exception

When we are styling and have a major breakage just prior to m major flush of growth (foliar or vascular), .Since we are working with a tree that is very strong, We can fertilize
In fact in this operation some of AfterCare is to provide supplements nutrition to provide the tree with the philosophical resources to maximize metabolic activity
This is where thinking about supplemental nutrition that feeds cellular productivity could be the next level of AfterCare for post styling for major failures, operations, breaks, tears and reduction of vascular tissue to mend and repair that damage (1:15:41)
Circulation as the major backbone of new cellular production is also one of the things in our Bonsai cultivation that is deficient
How do I repair damage, calcium is s big one
Has to be plant available calcium (see nutrition)
It is not available on d basic alkaline PH
Is available with a sightly more acidic PH
Bio Gold has 13% useable calcium, see nutrition stream for more complete analysis
Is Biogold a good AfterCare solution if you need calcium, yes

DAMAGE (1:18:30)
is a catchall for everything that happened that we did not intend to happen
1? Temperature Damage
High vs low
2. Nutrition
3. Toxicity vs Deficiency
4. Chemical/Mechanical
5. Insects/Disease
1. So many of our responses to dealing with damage is should we trying the damage
1. ABSOLUTELY NOT
2. 99% OF THE TIME FEW EXCEPTIONS
2. Do not touch the tree after it experienced damage. Two exceptions
1. Blows of the bench and your out shatters
i. Put it back in a slightly larger container
ii. Chopstick in the soil
iii. Shelter sun, wind strike Balance of Water and Oxygen
iv. Borer damage
1) You’ve got to go in and find the borer, they will continue to feed
3. Temperature
1. Species tolerance
2. Foolish mass
3. Container size
4. Condition of roots
Obtain ultimate health
Do not subject a weak tree to extreme heart
Do not subject a weak tree to intense cold
Shelter these trees
As always focus on the Balance of Water and Oxygen
4. No nutrition on a super weak tree
Fertilizer is not a fix, it is a supplement to not a solution, can hurt
5. You can not always identify a tree that lacks Ultimate Health
Our of 500 juniper a biological pest control was administered 5 suffered these had an inherent lack of Ultimate Health
There was a root related issue not aware of (1:25:15)
New foliage can occur on damaged branches, Don’t Remove
Solution; Balance of Water and Oxygen

6. If we don't know we have a weak tree and take in damage
	1. Change Environment
	2. Tilt tree on Angle
	3. Apply Silaca as a foliar spray (1:27:15)
		i. Silica is a magic spray in Horticulture the way picture dust is a magic solution
		ii. No one really knows why it works
			1) Silica is the fortifying agent in the plants system
			2) Silica cannot be over applied
		iii. It can soak up a tremendous amount of toxicity in the foliar mass
		iv. It can reinforce the cellular walls that have broken down and degraded
		v. It can sustain in needles that were damaged
	4. Silica as a backbone of emergency respond is Bonsai related damage is one of the best tools in your arsenal
		i. Eden Blue Gold (https://edenbluegold.com/product/blue-gold-silica-omri-listed/)
			1) Best as reported by Apical Solutions

Should we mist
Depends
Do we still have life in the foliage
There only way a plant fixes itself is the trough photosynthesis
Misting starts to shut down the stomata and gaseous exchange. Probably not
Could it have prevented the damage
If not destroying the Balance of Water and Oxygen
Probably
How long should we apply
Tool we see new growth (1:31:10)

Nutrition-Toxicity and Deficiency
If we are using a general broad spectrum fertilizer
Miracle Groe, BioGold, Dr Earth …
Some of the nutrition within can become toxic as it builds up
See Nutrition Lecture
If you apply everything all at once, over time, Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium, trace elements, one of these over the he course of time will build up and become an impediment

You’re ingredients response to knowing what is going on is tested
Mirai used Aplical Soil Solutions
1. Test water
2. soil
3. You will keep records of what was applied and when
One of these three things will be there cause
Mirai found Apical after trying many consultants to be the best

CHEMICAL/MECHANICAL
if you have a Chemical/Mechanical issue flush the system
1. Soil, foliage
2. Establish Balance of Water and Oxygen
Tilt pot on Angle
3. Apply Silica
Get the tree out of the sun, full shade
Remove from wind
Fortify with Silica
Recovery protocol
Exception protocol: nothing stupid Roundup

INSECTS AND DISEASE
Don’t remove damaged folder
Bonsai shirts spray from Horticultural practice
Mostly a Hydroponic environment (7-10% organic)
You do have to test the issue
1. Treat and eradicate the pressure
2. Alter the environment
i. Move it to a different part of the garden
ii. treat the foliar mass to decrease the conditions that allow spider mites to exist
iii. Scale-shift it’s environment change it’s circumstances slightly
3. Adjust Nutrition/Water
4. Have to establish Balance of Oxygen and Water (1:44:50)

Insects and Disease
	They are helping the tree
	The tree is calling them to relieve it off some type of stress
		Insects attracted to high salts
		Pathogens to metals
			See properties of Akadama in should
			Akadama subjected to environmental factors can build up metals
			Akadama is the best thing we use at Mirai- AkAdy is the biggest problem at Mirai
	Why do we keep using it
		Shallow environment, shallow soil column, water retention and necessity, with these old trees inside of that between repotting, it is the only option that will do what it does at that level of asthetic
	How do we adress that you've the problem of heavy Salts
		Use Silica Calcium, Phosphorus, Carbon
			No set regime yet (1:49:20)
Insects are a symptom, disease is a symptom, of a greater issue inside the vascular system inside your tree tree, you have to change the core problem or it will continue to exist XD to

QUESTIONS
• Most of the questions just clarification or expansion on concepts above. If you have the time to listen to the half hour+ then do. I did not have the energy to write up

Mail order tree, start recovery protocol
This is the answer to most questions so far
Tropicals from indoor winter grow lights to Outdoor
Need to grow new Foliar Mass. When you moved them out, minimal amount of even morning sun
Minimal wind
Minimal Sun
Then Recovery Protocol
Existing leaves are an energy suck
(2:02:30)

Some plant and situation specific information

Apicale Soil Solutions testing critical
The grey supply the solutions, Mirai can provide dosage if not one to one of testing done be then (2:25:00)

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