Tips for collecting evergreen seeds from cones

Horticulture
#1

Over the last few years I’ve enjoyed collecting seeds and growing starters. I’ve learned a lot about the horticulture of trees and it’s fun to think that in a decade (or two) some of these might become bonsai. However, I’ve struggled with the timing to collect evergreen seeds from the cones. I either seem to collect the cones too early and then the cones don’t open, or I wait too long and the cones have already opened and dropped their seeds.

If anyone has any tips on the best time to collect the cones to get the seeds, I’d appreciate any advice.

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#2

Hi @Tac,
Its like picking fruit. Best just before they are ripe.

#3

Hi Tac, the best time to collect is autumn though that’s not a hard and fast rule. I’ve collected larch in March and planted straight away and here I am 23 yrs later with some of the same trees. One way to open a cone is to bring it indoors and when it opens do a float test of the seeds to see which are good. There will usually be one or two good seeds for you. I never miss an opportunity when out and about during autumn and winter. Obviously you will need to find out which seeds need stratifying but I’ve had seeds in the fridge and planted as late as May with success. I think it’s not hard work so if I only get one or two it’s a success, and who knows in 10 years time what that tree will look like.

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#4

Agree, it’s pretty passive work, so if I only get a few a year, it seems like a no-brainer.

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#5

If you have the time to commit, you can bag unripe cones with just a fine enough mesh to retain the seeds. Assuming you can keep the squirrels out…

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#6

Hi everyone, I am happy to read about seeding. Can anyone share their experience, suggestions? I had bought seeds in the past but I have not been very lucky with germination even if I had followed the stratification procedure where necessary. Only one seed of quercus ruber germinated, grew for some time in the pot, but at first bad weather perished. What is the right way?

#7

I start most of my seeds by planting them in flats or seed trays in the fall / early winter and exposing them them to the winter. Some years I am very successful, in others I get poor results. I think I can track the poor results to a late cold snap that kills the seedlings just after they germinate during one of our February warm spells. I am now keeping the flats in the greenhouse to avoid the hard freezes and planting the sees later in the winter so they get enough stratification time and germination as things warm up.

I have not had good results with stratification in the refrigerator due to mold, but now have some white-bark pine that needs 120 days in there for planting on 1 May. However, I believe that they prefer artificial stratification in industry due to the better control.

I have used a variety of planting media over the years ranging from commercial potting mixes to an inorganic bonsai soil. I am planning to use a 50/50 mix of commercial potting mix and 1-3 mm pumice this year. The goal is the strong growth of the organic potting mix and looser mix for easier root spreading when I repot.

It sounds like you may have had a damping off (fungus) issue with your oak seeding. Damping off due to fungus is an issue with seedlings. Commercial growers are careful to use a sterile mix and apply fungicides at the optimal times. I tend to avoid widespread use of fungicides so I have a healthier soil biome. The biggest issue I have with oaks is that the squirrels like to dig up the acorns and remnants so I keep them covered with wire mesh until I transplant in the 2nd year and cut off any bits of acorn.

#8

I have had quite a lot of success with bought seeds but you do need a reputable supplier. I have successfully hatched, Zelkova, Palmatum, Thuja, Hinoki Cypress, larch (jap and euro), monterrey cyrus, Italian Cyprus and a few others that due to my senior brain I can’t remember. Also, I always collect seed whenever I’m out and about, no matter the time of year and that dictates how they are stored or planted.
I use the refrigerator method due to the wet winters we tend to get in the UK and the sudden freezes. It’s important to know the correct length of time that each variety needs for stratifying. There’s something really special about starting them off from seed though I usually give most of them away to members of the bonsai club I’m in.
That being said, 2020 was a bad year and out of over a hundred seeds planted I only succeeded with 3 hinoki, 3 maples (from a new supplier and they definitely aren’t palmatums that I ordered!) and 1 zelkova which sprouted in the garden after me throwing the tray away as I thought they had all failed. I know all the seeds were good when I started but hey, I still got something and in ten years time… who knows?
I use a 50/50 mix of compost and grit and repot once the first set of real leaves have hardened off.
If you want a seed that virtually never fails, buy a pomegranate from the shops, wash the seeds and sow. If it’s warm they can go outside or as I do put the tray in a greenhouse and watch the little devils grow. You will be amazed.

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#9

Thank you both. Is there a site you refer to when looking for details about germination times, stratification, scarification, etc. by species?

#10

I purchase seeds from sheffields.com and they list the stratification requirements for seeds they carry.

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#11

I use Forestart (a good seed supplier) based in the UK. For each seed type they give a description of what the seed needs, ie classified as deeply dormant. There is a web page that describes all these classifications in detail and what requirements there are.
Any good supplier should have details such as this. Beware though there are lots of so called seed suppliers who only use generic data. I had one give me the same instructions for zelkova and acer palmatum.

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#12

When you repot, immediately after the leaves are hardened, what soil mix do you use? Do you go straight to the bonsai inorganic soil akadama, pumice, lava or do you keep vermiculite, sphagnum, organic, etc?

#13

It depends upon what growth rate you want. Akadama will give you slower growth, shorter internodes and more refined growth whereas organic gives you more rapid and coarser growth. I’m not so patient and want rapid growth so I can get to play with it sooner.
Certain trees / styles though, are best grown using akadama, such as a Zelkova broom style. It may take longer to develop but after about 6 or 7 years you will see it is definitely worth the effort with super refined branching.

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