Post Stream Discussion - Yamadori Juniper Repotting

Design
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Hey Mirai Family!

What did we all learn, like, dislike, want to know more about, etc?

In this stream, we featured a wild yamadori Rocky Mountain Juniper. We began the stream with collection box removal and initial root ball exploration and pruning. We then moved on to a full repot operation in our newly selected container.

I am including a before and after image of this composition for everyone to critique, comment on, or appreciate.

2018_Juniper_Yamadori_Before-1
2018_Juniper_Yamadori_Before-11224Ɨ816 227 KB
2018_Juniper_Yamadori_After-1
2018_Juniper_Yamadori_After-11224Ɨ816 256 KB

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Wow, beautiful literati style tree! Definitely need to watch the streamā€¦I have to see how Ryan got that tree in that pot!

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Mirai Live - Yamadori Juniper Repot - 2018-03-20
Chat transcript

Expand Transcript (It's very long)
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I was riveted to the stream to find out how @ryan would attach the broken deadwood. But time stole the finishing touches away from me!
Any tips for new to Yamadori plastic surgery? Bamboo dowel? Super glue? Duck tape?.. still a mystery to me. But magical how that tree fits into that pot! One that I can actually afford! Pot, not the tree!!!
Another great stream, but left me asking a lot of questions.

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Thank you for adding the live stream chat @BillsBayou, I heard Kendall and Aurther talking about some of the comments about Lime while we were running around getting the pots. I was not logged in watching the chat while I was in studio helping.

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Youā€™re welcome! Glad to help.

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Anybody know when this stream will be available in the archive ?
Iā€™ve been frothing at the mouth for this stream

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Usually it is available on Thursdays for the weekend.

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It is up! https://live.bonsaimirai.com/archive/video/yamadori-juniper-repot

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Bob,
I have been using a Titebond superglue product called Instant Bond. I use it for gluing pegs into wood working projects and you can sand the excess and it even takes stain. Mainly, it dries clear so pretty much disappears.
I have glued deadwood back together in the past ( especially when a accident bounces it on the floor to shatter ). It has been to one show already as part of a tanuki display with no complaints.

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@LeonardB Thanks for the response. I have Hobbytown brand Maxi-cure TM and Hobbytown Insta-set TM accelerator. I am going to do some tests with dowels and sticks and see how they look. Sad that the deadwood broke off the common juniper, looks a lot younger without the aged wood. Too small pieces to be pegged Iā€™m afraid. Any other recommendations ??:persevere:

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Bob,
I have drilled smaller holes and used finish nails with some success.

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Was there a video of his actually potting this one up and then applying the sphagnum as per the final photo and the piece of broken deadwood?

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Serendipity didnā€™t prevail for me yesterday on my Sabina yamadori repot , luckily I had a plan b to build a custom box
Hopefully thatā€™s my one in a hundred

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@Ricardo_Nagaoka So Ricardo, what is the secret, did @ryan use glue to re attach the deadwood?

waiting with great anticipationā€¦ still waitingā€¦:persevere:

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My take on deadwood repairs: I have made deadwood repairs for years. I use basic woodworking principles. The glue I use is a high-grade epoxy like west bends. the wetting of all joining surfaces is important to assure longevity. For me there are two different kinds of repairs: one where the DW will be joined to an area that will eventually be encapsulated with live wood and one where its DW to DW. If its the later one has to craft it really well. First, it has to be fit and be sure it is solid and looks good. I use the loose dowel system. I then drill a corresponding hole very carefully assuring they align being very careful. I then dry fit the loose tenon and check the fit. I have used copper wire, fiberglass rod, SS threaded rod and wood for the loose tenon. If its a big piece of wood I have also used toe screws and through screws before.be sure all surfaces are wetted with epoxy and the mortise voids will be full but not too full. Itā€™s basically just woodwork and epoxy work. Be sure to protect the trunk from drool and donā€™t bother with the work unless it is exquisite. My opinion and experience.

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@crust
David, did you mean West System epoxy? I have used it for years to do fiberglass repairs on my old sailboats. I could not find west bends brand. A city in Wisconsin? Thank you for your advice and experience. I do not have giant majestic deadwood, but I try to keep the natural deadwood on collected yamadori to use the natural look in my design. The use of dowel/wire/tenon are very helpful.
I try to learn by doing, but I learn from others experience and try to adapt it to my ability and experience. Loving the FORUM!!:heart_eyes:

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Yes, I had a brain cloud, West Systems epoxy, both slow and fast formulas. I add the micro balloons to thicken for certain projects. I have also experimented a lot with penetrating epoxies which are, to my knowledge, just thinned epoxy. I have dissected older epoxy work on trees and on structural carpentry work and found that nothing really penetrates very much even if you follow all recommendations and drill tons of holes and really dry and soak everything. The epoxy works well for glue joints, such as branch connecting but for branch or trunk sealing with a penetrating style viscosity I have found that using heat to warm both the wood and the epoxy is criticalā€“it really increases the amount it penetratesā€“which is not very much. Using desiccant bags wrapped on with aluminum foil is a good technique to dry out rotten areas, that or set up a fish tank pump with a desiccation feed and pump subtle air into a hollow for a day or two then check for dryness.

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Does anyone have information on the sphagnum moss and akadama mix used to cover the exposed root near the back?

Iā€™ll have a similar situation soon.