Did my first application on fungicide due to some having a fungus
Just Sprayed all over the foliage not realizing that it was at times dripping onto and hitting the bed of the pot. Is this a big issue? Is it only a issue if I’m directing spraying it into the soil?
Anything to assist if it is a problem?
Picture for idea of what happened
I usually cover the soil in pot with plastic. I spend too much attention to soil biom not to. Especially pine’s symbiotic fungus species.
Not to worry. If the tree needed the antifungal for health, it will work itself out. The tree will survive. Do you use Dr Earth Live…? Give it a week and inoculate…
What chemical name / name brand did you use.
What did you spray and why. Can’t tell from photo, pine.?
Your avatar ( nametag…) doesn’t say where you are…
I am from Illinois
I bought a few yamadori ponda and limber pine. They had some fungus. Yellowing blackening on some needles. Was told to use clearly 3336 f and macozeb
I didn’t even think to cover. Will on my next round next month.
Is that stuff you recommended a good fungus I take it? You recommend to use for precaution in a week or so?
I let it dry then have a good watering hoping to dilute it.
Any and all suggestions I am open too. First time doing this. Thanks
Those would do the job. You wont see a differenceI on the needles untill new ones open / elongate. I also use copper spray in late fall as a palliative, before winter storing. Eliminates winter / spring fungal problems on all of he species.
Are your new buds / needles open yet. Thats the oporent time to spray for needle fungus problems. I tend to ignore a small amount. Healthy trees.
Dr Earth Live has a broad spectrum of good soil fungus and bacteria. Symbiotic fungus and bacteria help feed the trees essential minerals, swapping for sugars. Made my pines REAL happy. Innoculate once or twice a summer. Check for white fine mycelium when repotting. Once it gets going, it will stay there. I have had truffles in my little oak forest…
Now for yamadori in pumus
Would that dr earth live mess with the oxygen?
Should I just leave those?
So in summary. The spray on the soil shouldn’t affect anything?
The spray should be ok.
The proper biom will only help the trees… IF the trees are yamadori, they should STILL have some original soil. Never bareroot. Always throw a gandfull of old soil back into top of repot. It should have the proper bacteria already established.
My yamdori Ponderosas came in pumice, Randy Knight collected. I went out and collected some white mycelium from a local ponderosa and put into first repot. Happy campers…
This is great info.
So having the spray hit the soil like it appeared it did shouldn’t have any if much effect on the good bacteria?
Thanks for your help.
(Just good info…)
Usually, fungicides dont affect bacteria much; different metabolism. Yours will wrek havoc on some, not all, fungi. Depending on the chemicals.
Same for antibacterials on fungi.
Neither will do much to bugs… insecticides.
…Sometimes any of these will kill a tree, and they are ALL nasty on humans. Use gloves, and wash up. Read the labels and keep track of susceptible species. Ask.
Also, some bacteria and fungi need specific chemicals to kill.
Viruses are a completely seperate problem. Some cant be killed by burning, radiation, or chlorox…
The trees and microbiom will adjust, they will figure it out…
The sad thing is that the bonsai soil we use is mostly inhospitable to microbes (bacteria and fungi). Thats where the use of organic fertilizers come in. (Bioggold) is digested by the microbes , releasing the N, P, and K and micronutrients. Soft fertilizer.
Inorganic N P K doesnt encourage the community. Nothing for them to eat.
Spent all day with my bonsai! Trimming, wiring, and ripping off limbs… My oaks and Japanese Holly are just starting to leaf.
Oh ya, I ment to ask where you acquired your yamadori ponderosa… in Illinois?
All of that is great insight I do appreciate all of that. Awesome info.
The hidden gardens in Illinois. Best spot within hundreds and hundreds of miles for great specimens!
Just a couple of my new ones I thought spoke to me
I believe the recommended fungicide for needle cast is daconil and not mancozeb or cleary’s.
Normal after treatment to have a white residue on the needles?
Yes, for needlecast, daconyl. Spray new buds especially. Doestn affect the old needles appearence, damage is done.
From here, it looks like older needles turning yellow, normal. I do not see the telltale black band at the base of t.he yellowing. May be just older needles drying out.
Can’t tell if you have needlecast… or other fungal problems.
Clean the dead needles out and into trash. They carry old spores. Pick up the shed needles on ground…
Now’s the time to pull off (gently, watch for new small buds…) three year needles, and bottom two yo needles, into trash, too.
Wash you hands before working on anything else. If you use scissors or tweezers, alcohol dip them. Good habit anyway…
Now may be past opperant time to put on wire and set structure. Im still wiring spme pines, gently. Since you are NOT working on refinment, biogold now! I would cut that plastic pot down to just above the soil line. You can see the base better for styling and repot angle…
Post a closeup of the suspect needles and limber pine needles. Needlecast will affect most pines. They CAN live with some needles affected.
Thats gonna be an awsome ponderosa… into a bonsai pot next spring!
You need a garden nome…
Here is the limber pine issue I found up close
Yup, that’s needlecast… Daconyl, now. On the buds, esp.
The other two might do it. Do another shot as per label.
Revisit in the fall.