Hi all,
First off this beech was attacked by white aphids. Now I think it has a fungal issue, but not really sure. As you know, we’ve had a wet and cold northwest spring. It looks and seems fungal to me. I sprayed with an anti fungal about two weeks ago, and it only got worse. The leaves at the apex complete came off. Now the rest of the tree is slowly fading…
Any insight or suggestions?
Thanks!
Might be something else. What was your watering schedule? Beech are water loving species.
Your tree looks like it had a lot of foliage to the amount of roots in that pot.
Roots and foliage are a “mirror image”
Along with watering, the sun and wind could have played a roll.
Just my thoughts
Hi all,
In North America and for a couple of years now, the beech leaf disease (BLD) infects trees with certain death for infected trees. Scientists are still looking for a curative treatment. I am concerned as I do have a couple of beech bonsai some are not affected and a few small young tree (seedlings) are getting the symptoms (shaded leaves) and beyond all beech forests in NA are impacted. It would be great to get any guidance from Bonsai Mirai and Ryan if they are aware and if there is any preventive actions like nematodes, or specific nutrients to control and get the trees stronger. I assume we am hoping that we can do a better control for trees in pots versus beech forests for treatment.
Thanks
Mathieu
This is something I have thought lots about and to date the best science treats with a soil application of Phosphite products** , which are essentially high-potassium fertilizers. I would love to see an apical test done and see if there is a better solution and can it be done at scale?
Thanks for your reply. I read the same. Which brand fertilizer is recommended?
…and thanks for reviving my thread!
Kelp extracts and anything minded from rock powders or wood ash…the tough part is the vagueness of “high in potassium”. Also almost all carbon based life nutrient and nutritional health is relational ( think electrolytes in humans . Human sweat is made upo of 220 Sodium to 63 Potassium to 16 Calcium to 8 Magnesium ) and striking the correct ratio 3;1 or 4:1 Sodium: Potassium is better diagnosis than “drink water”
I have a good amount of beech trees and I am by no means an expert but I only give them organic supplemental nutrition Kelp extract and low amounts of Biogold . Because to me it is unclear if it is the “high Potassuim or the absences of high synthetic nitrogen” that is helpful. I will try to ask Ryan on a Q&A one week because i would love to hear his thoughts
Thank you! I agree I was checking biogold ratio and haven’t found anything yet. It would awesome to bring to Ryan’s attention during Q&A. Thank you for doing that.
Sorry I misunderstood I give light to med applications of Biogold on Beech in spring (light) fall (med)
Curious how your beech is doing? Also I some how missed the pictures in my original response.
The beech leaf desiese shows a more “stradiation” or almost variegated look on the early stages… this is based purely on a enormous amount of observation. Native Grandifolia is a favorite of mine and finding material or spaces to collect non infected trees is becoming a nearly impossible task in the North East
While we wait to see tree pictures from westSeattleDavid, sharing here one of my European beach evolution in the past 3 years
Récent restyling:
this is looking great
Have you been able to ask the question during Forum Q&A? Thank you
I have not had the chance I just upgraded to the “pro version” the week I responded to this thread and Q&A’S are now biweekly. I have a beech that I intend on asking some “styling” questions and plan to piggyback it on that week. This will prob be in January as soon as I do I will update this thread
Next QA I am going to ask for stlye advice on this beech and will toss in a question to see how aware Ryan is (I am sure he is very aware) and what are his thoughts are and around BLD.
White/wooly aphids are extremely common on beech; your best bet was to rub them off with your fingers in combination with a little water spraying, as there weren’t an enormous amount of leaves on your tree. As to what is/was wrong with your tree, I can only guess, but if it’s not planted in akadama, and you’re not at least giving it a little organic fert. of some sort (like bio gold), you should. And too much sun will burn beech leaves in a bonsai pot. Sad but true, the dying-off in the American northeast of beech has been going on for at least 25 years. I remember attending a seminar almost that long ago (sheesh I’m getting old!) where it was discussed, and it was caused by a pathogen (forgot the name) similar to the west coast’s Sudden Oak Death Syndrome. Telltale signs were oily spots on the trunk, and then cracking (and falling off) of the bark, where underneath these bark areas you would see a pink color.
There is Beech Leaf Desiese and Beech Bark Desiese I believe what you are referring to is the Bark Desiese! Either way outcomes don’t look promising. The slow decline is being sped up it seems!
Yeah it looks like there are 2 different things attacking beech. I used to supervise the caretaking of 70 acres of park-like grounds which had a great deal of trees, including a lot of ornamentals, so I was more up on these things back then, interacting with folks in the landscape trade and such. We had 3 beautiful, enormous European beech trees on our grounds which unfortunately died from the bark disease. I understand this new leaf disease popped up about 10 years ago, and just reading about it now, it seems if you treat it with potassium, it helps. I haven’t seen anything affecting my beech bonsai over the years though, with the exception of the wooly aphids now and then. The leaves on the tree at the top of this thread kinda just look burnt to me.
I agree and that was my guess because the Beech Forrest around me show extreme banding in the affected ones. Not what this looks like.
Q&A question asked about beech. Long winded but tried my best!
Happy Holidays-
Species: Fagus sylvatica ‘Sandrode
Time in training: None
Last scope of work performed and when: The tree was acquired over the summer (July-Aug) and moved from the broken nursery pot into the current pot with any root reduction.
Location: Boston MA
Issues/Concerns with tree: None
Questions/Critique requested:
I wanted to check if my plan of action forward and timelines were in target. Also any thoughts around what you see and where you might take it design wise is one of the most useful parts of the Q&A for someone like me, who is still much in the process of learning to apply the objective design principles. Also it’s great to compare our initial ideas around pot selection , style, type, color ext. To the initial picture you paint upon see the trees. So I thought I would mention I appreciate and more importantly for me it’s more of learning loop than taking your way and applying it blindly. Which I imagine is what you intend for.
Plan: spring 2024 initial repot into a bonsai container. Post harden flush air layer the top section (yellow mark).
Spring 2025 set initial structure assuming airlayer only took a season ( if not adjust timeline accordingly)
What would your recommendation of soil mix be currently, given that the quality of akadama is so variable?
One final question regarding beech. With beech bark Desiese and Beech leaf Desiese becoming a rapidly growing issue, have you done apical testing on your beech Forrest (or any fagus you have) and have you seen or treated them any differently? I believe to date the common industry best plan specifically for Beech Leaf Desiese is soil application of Phosphite products, which are essentially high-potassium fertilizer? Any thoughts you have a long this line of questioning would be great
