I’m thinking of getting this trident. What are your thoughts on the first branch?
The first branch is actually in fairly good proportion to the trunk. The problem is that is the only branch that is in proportion to the trunk. Given the lack of taper to the trunk chop it will be difficult to develop anything other than a broom with this trunk and in that case the large branch is too low.
However, this is a tree with a good nebari and thickness so my approach would be to tilt the tree a little further away from the heavy branch and plan to develop that as the new trunk line. This would be a long-term project since there will be a very large wound to heal once the trunk is cut at a taper to support the new trunk line. If you want taller tree, you could do that same thing with the thin branch that emerges close to the trunk chop. In this case, control the growth of the large branch for a year or two to help avoid root die back as the new leader takes off and then remove it.
Then I should cut that branch shorter to create taper let the top grow a new leader then cut trunk to taper to new leader.
Will I be able to grow branches that would match existing branch.
Based upon your response I think you are looking at my first option to make the heavy branch as a new leader. if this is the case, then this is what I would do.
- Wash off the current soil and repot at the new angle (10-15 degrees more tilt away from the big branch) into your favorite soil (I like 3 parts akadama and 1 part pumice in the 3-6 mm size range). I would use a grow box, but an oversized bonsai pot will also work.
- Let it grow wild this year to build root strength. In mid-June, you can cut back all but the new main trunk to 2 buds. The goal is to direct energy to the new leader, while keeping the sap flow from the other roots. You can trim the very long leaders for winter storage in the fall.
- Next late winter, cut the big main trunk back to about 1 inch above the new leader. This will probably cut off most of the smaller branches from the first year. Hopefully there will be some other new buds below the cut to maintain sap flow as it is redirected to the new leader.
- Deepening upon the growth from the new leader you may have an opportunity to cut the new leader (old heavy branch) back a bit for the next leader back over the big trunk and a first branch to the outside. However, this may be a move next winter.
- Let it grow wild and trim like the previous year.
- Late winter of the 3rd year, cut the old big trunk back at an angle to match the new leader and round it a bit from front to back so you can set up the taper into the new leader.
- Continue development of the new leader as if it was the old trunk in year one.
- Repeat these 3 years as you develop additional new leaders.
In a decade you should developed a nice informal upright structure that can be refined.
Marty
Ok I’m 63 I’ll be 73 before I start refining it. At my age I may need a shorter plan to get it to a refundable tree. Lol
Rod - It may happen faster than that with good strong growth. I’m 67 and still plant seeds! Need something to work on if I reach my great grandfather’s age of 106.
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Hey if it’s about that side branch only, shorten it. As a minimum you will give it better movement with that small branch growing half way on it. It is way too long and straight - looking odd, like it doesn’t belong there so no wonder you question what to do with it. Having nearly secondary trunk tree is more interesting too. My few cents
PS Imagine tilting it to the left in a pot
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I was thinking of shortening it, I think you’re right that’s what I’ll do for this year and see what grows. Thanks
It arrived and did root work on it. It was grown on heavy plastic bags and tap roots were cut as a seedling so root base is around 3-4” deep and I planted it 5” deep. Cut off most of the big heavy root leaving most of the feeder roots. Will make a decision on design next year after it gains strength over the summer.
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