I tried to email a response but got an error so here is the response again:
This is time for true confession. Before I did the rainwater / recycle project, our water bill was up to $500 / month for June, July, August and September. Now it runs $150. It was possible to do a cost benefit analysis on the whole project based on water expense. It showed a break even after 5 years with the estimate life of the system being a minimum of 20 years. I was not able to quantify the benefit on the health of the trees with the pH reduction but globally, they’re much better (greener, more active growth). I have overhead automatic sprinklers in place and use the system in two ways. During the dog days, it runs for brief times 2-3 times per day for a min in each zone, just to cool the area and concurrently water the trees. This is setting me up for fungal infections but the tradeoff is burned maples. As I’m still working (even in Covid 19), I am able to water by hand once a day but frequently don’t need to water at all.
The tank is 2000 gal and will completely fill with 3 inches of water from the roof run off. The area under the benches in the gravel fill is an estimated additional 1000 gals for a total available water of 3000 gal. With the recycling, this will last 6-8 weeks with no addition of water. (I have a backup of the system automatically converting to city water if the tank runs out) If I was to change to a drip system or do just hand watering, then it would probably last all summer. As for an estimate on how much I actually reclaim, probably 60% (evaporation and tree use). During the winter, there is always water in the tank. I continue to overhead sprinkle during the winter but this may be only once a day or every other day.
If you’re going to do this kind of project, there are some lessons learned. The most significant is that the catchment area needs to be larger than the bench area, particularly if you overhead spray. There is always some water outside of the catchment area over head spray so I still have occasional muddy dog feet, but not nearly as bad or as frequent as before.
…very small setup with 40% sun shade to see how trees would thrive, grow, etc. I know it’s not aesthetically pleasing to the eye. I used 34" PVC anchored to decorative landscaping blocks. I really liked Leafscat setup coming away from wall at 45 degree angle. That’ll be my next larger project using piping. Thanks all…
So… Jeramiah… have you made your plans or have a set up after all the excellent ideas? I am in a similar windy area and have trees that will need to be removed because of disease.
There are some really great ideas here. After much discussion with my wife, we have decided to re sod our lawn. So my shade cloth is on hold. But so far I am not seeing the sun burn I was expecting on my hornbeam.
So it is still up in the air.
Saw the photo of your back yard. Sell your wife on some fencing, too. Investment… pays over time.
Defines the yard, keeps the kids n pets safer, keeps rifraf out, will add to sale price of house… ( an unobtrusive emergency escape gate installed.)
AND, Incorporate appropriately placed 8’ corner posts in the build… voila… instant shade base. No plastic. Ceader.
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I went with 2 12x12’ heavy metal pergola kits (all at fall throw away sales), and two tan plastic woven 10x14’x shade cloths. (Pool shade cloths.) Short bungi cords. SET up 8’ apart. Gives about 30’ x 10 feet of shade. Roll up for storage. Easy disassembly for moving.
Matching shade also on my back deck pergola… easy up n down.
I only use shade above +/-90F forcast for a week+.
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I also grew (20years) a maple tree. Planned ahead. Too much shade now… but, move trees in and out as needed. Most need full sun, untill it gets TOO hot. Lost a Ponderosa by leaving it in a black plastic pot in full sun at 95F. Fried roots. Dont see the damage untill next spring.
Also, I have a large thermometer deap in the soil of one large pot. Has ranged up to +95F…!
Water n shade… n oxygen, n beer…
We should probably move this to a new thread as the initial topic was shade cloth and I added the subject of water re circulation while talking about shade cloth.
As for you question, I’m only using organic food (Biogold or home made equivalent). I’m sure that it leaches through the pots and drips onto the gravel bed below. Essentially, the collection area is a gravel filter like one that would be used at a water treatment station or Koi pond. There will be bacteria in the gravel bed that will decompose any organics that make it to that level. I think that any nutrients that make it through to the storage tank will function as a folar fertilizer. This conversation is making me think about sending a water sample off for analysis this fall. There is no odor associated with the system and I attribute this to the high dissolved O2 that is in the water from the over head sprinkling.
For folar management of fungus, I will move them to another area to spray that is not part of the water catchment area if needed. I’ve also banned the use of Round Up or other herbicides from my yard maintenance program. If I have to treat active weeds, I use horticultural grade acetic acid (concentrated vinegar). You do have to be careful with this as it can give you a chemical burn but is also 100% biodegradable.
Took my shade cloth down yesterday. Easy up and down! 35F last night. Good rain for several days.
80s next week. Fall! DO you get extra credit for apples on your crabapples?
Real good summer Real healthy trees. Pines are a little yellow. Applied calcium, magnesium and iron.
Except a liquidamber that was unhappy last fall. Over grew in spring, huge leaves. Then the leaves went limp and black. Still barely alive, new shoots… Don’t have a clue. Maybe root problem. Will baby it this winter.
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Enjoy! Bonsai On.!
I finally put up my shade cloth. It is a 50 % shade as it is in full sun on a flat roof. I wish I made it larger so I may add a second section next year.
Interesting.
I’m just thinking of taking mine down… Finally fell below 80F for the rest of the year… hopefully…
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Note to self: a snowload WILL tear it down!
You may find you don’t need as much more space as you might think. You can put trees directly under the structure for mid-day protection, but you can also place trees on either side of the sun’s path and get some morning or evening shade there too.
Actually, I intentionally grew a norway maple shade tree for my bonsai patio, was a three trunk. Howerver, one limb got run over early by a riding lawnmower…
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It’s only 15 years old; younger than most of my bonsai!
Shades TOO well. Had to move my benches 20 feet North to catch morning / evening sun. NOT enough shade for all of my herd in summer heat! Hence, the two pergola shades.
Oh, the things we do for this bonsai habit …
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Bonsai On!
