I have been manicuring this Oak in the ground for a couple years. I would like to move it into a training pot. When should I do this?
Well I’m not sure where you are located but it would probably correlate with repotting season . Probably better to go into a box until It recovers from the move rater than right into a pot. But definitely ask a better expert than me lol .
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darned good point about where I might be! I will edit that. I’m in Oregon about 55 miles SE of Mirai HQ
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One thing I have started to test is to prepare an oak in advance through an airlayer at the base of the main trunk (right below the ground level)
I did this last May. Tree has been collected early this January.
It produced a huge amount of roots. Actually I had used a textile fiber for the airlayer wrap and roots came out of the wrap very dense and tight. I managed to collect all of them intact. The tree is still dormant for now.
I will be happy to tell you that it actually works but I need to wait and see evolution, it is the first time I do it, but I was surprised about the quantity of new roots just in ±6 months.
For me it make sense to cut the apical root taking a big amount of new fine roots just at the place I want. Tree size is around the same as in your picture.
Perhaps you want to try this or a different kind of preparation in advance.
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This sounds like a great way to monitor root health on trees I want to dig up. I hope you have success and keep us in the loop with this tree’s progress!
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Airlayering just below the surface as suggested is worth it especially with oaks root system is like a turnup typically coming out of the ground
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I would wait another month or two in your location, get as close to bud swell as possible but before they open. Oaks in the northeast where I am push later, they don’t chance a late hard frost and dieback. It might be worth getting a cheap heat mat since you already invested some time and love in this tree.
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I like to lift Oak’s from my growing beds in my garden once the buds are swelling. (energy in the branch tips not the roots) to try and preserve as much energy in the tree. I would then only prune thick roots and would not bear root, as there is some microrizal association like pines. By waiting till later in the year it is generally warmer, so less chance of a cold snap that seriously inhibits the damage repair and recovery from lifting. I would also put it in a sheltered position to reduce stress (over heating in the sun, wind drying, bla bla bla…)
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I’ve collected coastal oaks in Southern California through January. A deciduous oak, I would wait a bit later for big fat bud swell. I’m going to try later summer collecting too for oaks. They take a break in the heat of summer and then start growing again in fall for vascular growth. With a full canopy, and stored energy would help regenerate roots too, but I haven’t tried summer time of year yet. I think if I did a late summer early fall collect I would heat bed it.
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here some pics of the current state of the oak mentioned above
It had a great first push during which it was covered on a transparent wrap. Once it hardened off I started to open the wrap and eventually removed it. Now it is inflating tips again for a second push and I am thinking on transitioning outside slowly.
I did start fertilizing lightly.
My plan for the rest of the season is to leave it extend, nothing else, and as the quince primary structure video from Ryan I will only wire on mid September.
Regarding the apex, I had collected it with that trunk split so I will need to think on branch selection next spring but that long straight line up to the top is making me considering to choose a lower brach as apex and extend down that dead wood.
What do you think?
What else would you recommend?
I am really satisfied with the results of this preparation in advance I did in May '23
So far, I think that it did worth.
Thanks
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Not having gotten a real clear answer here so I have left it in the ground and just continued to prune. Here are the current June 24 pictures. I put a pair of glasses in the tree for scale in one picture. I also took a picture of the base of the trunk. I am contemplating pruning the tiny 3rd trunk/branch.
Thoughts?
I wouldn’t remove anything that isn’t causing a structural flaw until you remove it. You don’t know what the tree will self eliminate after removal…
bud swell was the recommended time from several members in the thread.
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I also got, after leaves finish developing, and when dormant…and what does “bud swell” mean? before it leafs out? before the buds stop growing? When they start?
Before it leafs out, as they increase in size, getting more full
Is now too late? The leafs have not yet hardened.
Now is too late to collect as it’s fully leafed out. Your next opportunity to collect would be this fall right after leaf drop, however next spring as the buds start to swell and before they open into leaves would be preferable. If you dig it this fall it would be best to not let it freeze, which is why next spring would be preferable.
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Unfortunately at this point I would leave it in the ground until next spring.
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I have no problem leaving it in the ground. It’s a pretty tree to look at any time! I will continue working on branching while in the ground! Thanks for helping me pinpoint exactly when I should dig it up!
Always hard to tell from pictures but make sure your keep sun hitting those bottom branches …if possible
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