So I recently got my water tested through Apical and they gave me some recommendations to optimizing my water quality. They recommended adding the following per 50gal of water:
-.5 lb Calcium Silicate (Wollastonite)
-1 lb Calcium Carbonate
-.1 lb Biochar
-.25 lb Humic Powder
I am trying to determine the best way to do this. I don’t think a dosatron will work since these are all soluble solids. I initially thought a 30-50gal tank with a pump would work but I am concerned about algae buildup. Any thoughts or suggestions?
Ya… The things that make me scream HMMM.
[Mind you, I am enthusiastic about Mirai and the Apical conversation… AND, this shouldnt be so complicated!]
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Just a few informed / educated thoughts…
Algae…
A ‘light free’ container with water and ANY food source grows slimy matted fungal and bacterial growth---- the ‘industries’ call it ALGAE…Diesel and gasoline in contact with some water-- grows like crazy… They add copious amounts of fungicides…
Plugs filters like crazy.
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I’m going to assume this is intended…
A small impeller pump will probably deal with the wads of slimy bacterial growth in a 50 gallon water tank. (I refuse to call it algae…) It will clog spray nosels and wands. My quart liquid organic fertilizer spray bottle clogs up if I leave it full for several days…
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Inorganic fertilizer minerals…
All the above recommended additives are technically a food sources… the fungus and bacteria colonizes the surface and digests it… just like any organic food source in your bonsai pots…
Add light, green algae WILL grow, too. Especially on soil surfaces.
ALL (!) of listed additives are insoluble in water… they are all crystaline rocks…
Wollastonite is a crystaline rock of silicates. Completely Insoluble; except in very CONCENTRATED acids (pH below ~2)
Calcium carbonate is only very slightly soluble at neutral (pH~7) soil conditions. 15mG/ L. Would be available for slow plant uptake, though it would take several years for 1lb to be dissolved… Most culinary water is usually already saturated with calcium… not in an organic form good for plant uptake.
Humate is basically insoluble mostly fossilized plant material (think coal)…You CAN buy soluble humate powder; in water, it would be dispensed quickly; [better to buy liquid humic acid, and dilute to be dispensed to the bonsai…?]
Biochar is calcined (overheated without oxygen) reduced carbon.Totally insoluble… needs to be bacterial digested into organic carbon compounds…
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Feritlizer…
My ‘educated guess’ is, the additives are there to leach(…) small amounts into the water to feed the bacterial growth… and the resulting ORGANIC molecules feed your bonsai… the ORGANIC silicates and carbon compounds they need. Just like in your organic fertilizer in bonsai soil mix.
I assume all of this is going on IN my organic fertilizer in my pots. I SEE fine chunks of white calcium carbonate left over in my digested Biogold! (The chunks fizz when dropped into vinager… Imagine that-- gradeschool chemistry being usefull…!)
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I listen to the ongoing Apical conversation… I see some merits there, and understand the current direction of the application to bonsai culture… If the tree needs ORGANIC calcuim, silicates, and carbon-- supply it in a form they can use… Moderate and over time; small amounts of essential micro-nutrients and elements.
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Tiggly-boo … Bobs your uncle!
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I tried adjusting my water pH. From 8.3 down to ~7.6. Trees died. My bad… [Note to ponder: TEST–old school organic fed happy established bonsai; pH of water going in 8.3; cleanly collected coming out ~7.6… It is reproducable; in different bonsai pots…Must be the bacterial biom affecting soil pH, down …!]
I added biochar and insoluble humate to some bonsai soil. Trees died. Still don’t grok why… shouldn’t have been any immediant effect; wasn’t in the pots long enough to grow microbiom…
Tried adding diatomaceous earth and zeolites to my bonsai soil… several trees have died, jury is still out pondering on these materials as bonsai soil…
Pines and decideous. Some long established healthy trees. Could have been botched repots or bad winters…
Mea culpa… dios esu domina-- whack, whack…
I am currently pointing at climate change, the hot three years (~108F max) of summer days, as the cause of most deaths… AND maybe my own enthusiasm to try ‘better’ things; too much, too quickly…
Was NOT my water pH(8.3) or chlorine (~600ppm?). Have lived and kept bonsai here successfully for 20 years… they grew FINE.
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Full disclosure… BS in Chemistry and BS in Biochemistry. Lab chemist, medical and microbiology experience. Raised in a farm environment. Still grow vegies.
Successfully (mostly) doing bonsai since about 1970… 200+ small trees… a few nice bonsai… grew withought akadama for 20 years… have always loved organic culture…
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Go slow, be informed, and know why you are changing things. Try one small change on a few trees… Ask stupid questions!
OLD school organic worked fine with me… and my trees. I AM still listening and embracing the new…
Newer is better? Better is better… this shoudn’t be so complicated!
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Just my personal thoughts on these subjects! Clear as mud? If any of the above information helps, you’re welcome. Spread the love!
Knowledge is power. Ultimate power corrupts… — wait, wrong forum!
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Bonsai On!
Kurt P
Kurt,
Holy cow, thank you for your response. Although it does raise many more questions than I already had. This was just the recommendation to adjust my water, I would imagine the recommendation for nutrition is going to be even more complex. I was already struggling a bit with the cost involved in this endeavor but was relying on the hope that it would help enable me to cultivate bonsai more reliably. After reading through your response, I’m thinking maybe I’ll just wait, given that none of my trees are high value and I am still very much in the beginner phase of my bonsai journey. Or perhaps i will try some experiments on a much smaller scale first to see if I have any ill effects. Something like small two or three gallon batches on just one or two trees. I hope at least the logic is sound behind the approach that apical provides and it’s just a matter of finding what works in your local environment…
That’s where I’m at. I think the Apical stuff is fascinating, and I totally believe in it. However, it doesn’t seem financially feasible for the lay practitioner. Hopefully, they can come up with something between status quo and bespoke elementals
Ryan is working at a Master level.
He is researching and qualifying his take on (high level bonsai). When he is shure it will work for US, he will try to lay it out.
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Mirai is the best thing going … for me!
It will probably not be an easy application for everyone…
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Meanwhile, keep it simple. Dont get excited and make it harder…
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Basics…
Balance of water and oxygen…
Friable soil mix. Free draining, with a moisture retaining component. Top dressing…
Organic fertilizer. Some micronutrients and essential elemental additives --calcium, iron, … Seaweed and fish emulsions. Work on an active healthy microbiom…
Consertive repotting and root pruning. Dont bareroot… unless you know the species will take it!
Conservative moves in triming and root reduction.
Practice wiring. Expect big moves to fail big…
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Relax and have a beer…
Haute Bonsai! … Bonsai On!
Several peopIe in this forum have been doing ongoing soil tests on soil replacements.
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I just compleated a legnthy series of pH tests of the soil components I use.
All were mostly neutral, or just above 7.0 ; 7.0 -7.3 .
That includes 5 years old, stored, premixed 1:1:1 Akadama, pumice, red lava. And, my decideous 1 part humus (organic potting soil).
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One VERY interesting test-- the 6 month IN USE, biologically active soil mix pH (has some surface moss) was 6.7 … (Dug down 2 inches in bonsai pot for sample…). Repeated on a similar bonsai pot to confirm, pH 6.7 . The active microbiom must be reducing the internal pH— down significantly. I tried this test last summer, and was very confused… This is a HAPPY pH point for bonsai…
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Also, LIVE bonsai pot effluent water was collected in a clean tray and tested… it was also 6.7 .
Test were repeated on two other different LIVE bonsai.
All tests had similar results. 6.6-6.8 pH .
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(Tests were a modified standard lab procedure (SLP)…
Note— the probe HAS to be submerged in water and moving slightly, to get a proper pH. Just sticking it in soil doesn’t work.)
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Procedure: 2 heaping tablespoons of test soil per 200 millileters of tap water. Into a clean pint glass bottle with lid. Seal. Shake for 1 minute. Settle 3 minutes. Skimm if needed (!), with a stainless steel mesh spoon.
pH meter was properly calibrated using pH 4 and 7 buffers. During the testing the probe was properly recalibrated several times,
Probe was vigerously rinsed in distilled water [measured pH at 7.1] after EVERY test, and calibration checked as needed in pH 7.0 buffer. Check that the probe bulb has no cling-ons…
Rinse test bottle, lid, and utensils with tap water.
My tap / drinking water is 8.3 .
All pH tests had the probe about 1 inch below surface of water with slight stirring circular motion.)
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It IS interesting that the microbiom in the pot is adjusting the water pH down by at least 1.6 points…!
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Anyone else out there seeing similar interesting tests results?
Bonsai On!
