Ive been making bonsai pots vessels for about 2 years now. Recently did a commission for someone else. Up to this point I make them for my own use. I figured there is no better place to get a pulse for my current skill level in relation to “market value”. This pot is not for sale and I am not promoting anything just looking to get a pulse from the hardcore tree geeks… like me
Potting area is 8-5inch @ 3inch deep, exterior is 11x77. Its a proprietary cement based blend (similar to atelier bonsai) that I hand carve, then seal. I have healthy trees doing well in these pots
If you wouldn’t mind commenting
(A) Not Interested in this style
(B) Would pay between $125-180USD
(C) Would pay between $180-240 USD
(D) Would pay between $240-300
If you have any feedback or more specific pricing that always appreciated. My feelings are removed from this so negative feedback is also encouraged. Thanks in advance for anyone willing to participate.
I really like it. If I was the other side of the Atlantic with prohibitive shipping rates I would already have been in contact. I think c 180-240 would be what I would be looking to pay. Though I think you need to consider if that price will adequately compensates your time and materials? I would guess each piece is quite time consuming.
I think your pots are very nice . And see no problem with your pricing . I have some interest in trying some of this process myself . But I see several negatives. In my environment. USDA zone 4 . They include cement based material. No matter how sealed are . A water absorbent materiel . ( those people I know that have tried this approach ) have ended up with cracked pots when used for hardy trees . In this environment. But of course there repairable . Next negative ( you asked ) I see is most people . Use paint type products to finish these pots . There is going to weathering of the surface . This is going to a negative aging . Compared to matériels like clay and stone . Where aging is a more positive addition . Last cement based pots end up being fairly heavy from what I have seen . Especially large pots . All this had switched my interest to trying more modern mediums . Most notable fibreglass . Matt style cloth and resin . Often used for auto repair . The 2 main advantages are . Light especially important for large sizes . Superior strength . Especially in thin dimensions . And a more waterproof base material. Another I feel unexplored area . Is modern epoxy . Like that being used to make countertops . I plan exploring this . First I plan on using natural rock . Especially flat slat . Discussions with a stone mason . Has lead to using modern epoxy type glues to attach rock together . Most of this . Is just to give you more ideas . From the cement pots I have seen . I like yours very much they have a very natural rock appearance . Good luck
All very good points. I also happen to also be a stone mason and work with “vertical or decorative concrete”. Which is not actually concrete but that’s a whole other discussion. My mix covers all your concerns. I just tossed out cement mix as a term to give some reference point. I use a fiberglass meshing and colored pigment directly into the mix same as clay. The fiberglass meshing and other additives make it weather proof in all zones for frost/dry cycles. Using real stones is nice but your going to have to deal with the weight of the pots, I found it to be too much of a limiting factor. The mix I use weighs less than standard ceramic of the same size about 1/5th less and sometimes I will have to add weight to make sure it’s heavy enough to handle a windy tree.
I don’t think I said what I sold this for but I was just trying to get a gauge of the value on the market.
Thank you for a great response, all solid questions and good luck with the exploration.
I’d rather not toss it out because it took me a year of tinkering to refine and I do use it for my business. Although I will give you a nugget to put you on your own path. Fiberglass mesh and concrete addictives used with something similar to a mortar mix with with stand frost thaw cycles. A little research and you might have an idea for a better mix than mine, so that’s the other reason I don’t want to give you a recipe. It could be limiting for you. There are also pre manufactured mixes under different names that are 100% frost proof but you would be looking at a couple hundred bucks for 10-15lbs of material
Also I would encourage you to explore don’t believe everything people tell you. Off the top of my head a single accelerant will allow mortar to be fine down to -8 for 150 consecutive thaw freeze cycles. I don’t know of a single USDA zone that has a 10th of that number of cycles in a year, so you’re hypothetically guaranteed… 10-15years before the potential for cracking with a single additive on a cheaper material mix… I bet most pots fired to cone 7 break before that
for that size pot, what is the actual weight. what you are telling me goes to your own experience and does not give me much to go on. that type I buy based on weight. I don’t buy the guy that produces those blocky pots that Ryan sells for one reason they are to expensive and they weight to much. I am trying to keep my trees manageable by one person and pot weight is important in this. otherwise I like the look and depth and the pricing is fine. just need to keep them as light as possible for me.
The pot posted above weighs 1.4lbs.
I build them as light as possible but with enough weight to hold the height of the tree. If a pot is too light it will not be able to support a tree and just tip over when the wind blows.
I have made 36inch slabs that weighed only 2 pounds.
pretty nice look and weight is fine. you can tie tall trees down on the bench so tipping over is controlled. you should try selling some. I like them a little deeper than what you are showing me but lots of people like shallow pots. would work well with native species.
Thanks for the information I never considered weight as a primary focus, good to know. The depth is not a limitation here’s a non traditional one I previously made that’s very deep. Also funny you mentioned the chunky ones. I have one that is currently drying that is very chunky and 4inches deep.
FYI .If you do end up making some remember to soak them in water for at least 48 hours to reduce any potential leeching. I typically do 72 hours and have done an apical test with a tree in one of these pots to ensure no leeching.
Thank you . You obviously are very knowledgeable on the subject . I’m just trying to learn . For know I’m going ahead with other projects . But like you I have some ideas . That will require a cement mix . I appreciate the info . And understand your protection of what you have . Your pots have a great deal of artistic talent . There very nice your gifted in this .
I love what your doing and I am looking for something that would good for my spruce I have a modern concept drawn, if your interested in making a pot for me let me know and I’ll post a picture of my concept with the necessary size.
How do you do drain holes and wire hole lay outs in the bottom of your pots?
