normally we prune our bonsai in early spring when the tree is in a energy positive stage. even in the winter months as the energy stored in the roots i assume the tree is in a energy positive stage. i wonder what will happen if we prune in mid winter and is it suitable ?
1 Like
Hi @kaveesha,
My understanding is that in the winter and early spring, most trees will be energy negative, as the production of new energy is low to 0?
Mabey the first thing should be to look at the species, understand how it works, and then ask “what is the objective?”
Some trees are happy to be pruned before a growth spurt, some during one, and others at the start of dormancy.
Pruning in the winter can also be good, but you need to consider the points above first. Many Alpine trees will lose branches in the winter from snow and storms.
2 Likes
what about deciduous trees such as trident maples, elms. for structural pruning to brunch selection ?
1 Like
I would prune deciduous trees right around to a week after leaf drop. Resources has then been stored and it leaves the tree with plenty of time to distribute it’s buds for next season. I know @ryan usually prunes in early spring just before buds break, however in the JM stream featuring Peter Warren they discuss this and peters recommendation is to prune around leaf drop seems logical. I believe @ryan mentions this as well in another stream, can’t remember which one tho.
3 Likes
It’s usually best to prune right before the tree moves resources, i.e. right as spring or fall begin. A large part of this is so that the tree can quickly heal whatever has been done to it. I imagine that if one prunes during dormancy, the wound will sit open for quite some time which could allow disease and pests to enter the system.
As far as maples go, pruning in the fall is best because they move so much water in the spring that they’ll bleed out if pruned then. I want to say most other deciduous would be fine, but I’m sure it comes down to the species.
1 Like
Hi @kaveesha,
Best thing to do is wait until winter and try a small branch. It may we’ll work. If it starts pumping sap- hold off the rest of the tree. As long as you don’t kill off the tree, this is often the best way to learn. Elm is usually pretty tough.
1 Like
thanks everyone for the advice
@AndyK as you mention i already try that in a elm small brunch removed from the trunk but still there not much active healing but i hope it will be healed in coming spring
@Carl as you mentioned when the tree moves resources will give the tree best chance of healing and can you tell me how to identify the right time to prune in fall i.e - just after leaf drop as @Alex mentioned ?
1 Like
@AndyK @kaveesha My questions:
Why wouldn’t you do the pruning in the Fall after leaf drop as opposed to Winter? Both have a defoliated tree.
@Carl Do you have anything to back up that the best time to prune is when the tree is moving resources? I think that might be best from a healing a wound standpoint, but definitely not as a best practice / blanket statement.
It’s usually best to prune right before the tree moves resources, i.e. right as spring or fall begin.
Right when Spring starts is when the buds are opening or swelling ( I mean open to interpretation I guess) and this is not the time to prune. This is the time to repot (swelling, not opening), but not prune. The tree has allocated energy to those buds and will remove the energy when pruned. Maybe @ryan can clear this up, but I’m almost positive that is the correct understanding.
I imagine that if one prunes during dormancy, the wound will sit open for quite some time which could allow disease and pests to enter the system.
If we put cut paste on the wound there should be a larger protection from disease and pests.
I would prune deciduous trees right around to a week after leaf drop. Resources has then been stored and it leaves the tree with plenty of time to distribute it’s buds for next season. I know @ryan usually prunes in early spring just before buds break, however in the JM stream featuring Peter Warren they discuss this and peters recommendation is to prune around leaf drop seems logical. I believe @ryan mentions this as well in another stream, can’t remember which one tho.
I feel that this is the best explanation I’ve heard. You can prune before the buds start swelling, but my belief is that if you prune before Winter you give the tree time to distribute its buds for next season.
Will pruning in Winter kill your tree? Probably not, but pruning just a branch or two or even some trees and not some trees won’t necessarily be discernibly different that you could draw a conclusion from it.
@kaveesha I’m still trying to figure that out myself lol. I might try starting in the Fall Physiology and the other fall stream. The Q and A videos have a lot of good content too.
@Nate_Andersen Good question. I don’t have anything besides this:
1.) Pruning a tree causes wounds.
2.) The best time to prune a tree is when the tree heals wounds best.
3.) A tree heals wounds best when it is moving most of its resources.
4.) A tree moves most of its resources at the beginning of spring and fall.
5.) Therefore, the best time to prune a tree is at the beginning of spring and fall.
thanks @Carl even now i am watching the fall physiology that got lot of useful stuff and spring fundamentals also cover lot about these
1 Like
True.
This I don’t think is necessarily true. In bonsai the best time to prune is when you are in an energy positive to not slowly decrease the health of your tree. Pruning your tree at the beginning of Fall decreases the trees ability to create cold hardiness and gather energy for the following Spring. (Fall Physiology video I think). Definitely don’t think this is a solid rule to govern pruning. Need more information to explain why before I’d follow that guiding principle.
True. Hence when making large cuts and needing a lot of healing you want your tree to be in development so you can continue to fertilize heavily to move more resources to heal quicker. Agreed here.
Won’t dispute this either.
Definitely think the blanket statement that you stated is vastly misleading. Not hating on you, just don’t want incorrect information given out without an understanding of the reasoning behind it.
I think if we are trying to establish one single rule for the pruning of all bonsai, irrespective of species, cultivar, location and stage of development, then we are doomed.
However, I’m loving the thought process coming through in this thread. “Why do we prune at this time?” “Why don’t we prune at this time?” “What are the consequences, based on horticulturally proven facts?”
There is a long history, since Gerard’s Herbal in the 16th century, of horticultural writers in the English language re-hashing spurious information. I think that it is not until we learn how to ask “why” and not “when” that we can free ourselves from the bunkum.
We need the knowledge, and for this Mirai is fantastic, but we also need to put theory into practice, make mistakes and learn by observing our trees to gain bonsai wisdom.
2 Likes