About 3 weeks ago, I collected some Shimpaku’s, a Zuisho grafted on JBP stock, a very large Ch. Quince, and a very large JBP. They had all been in the ground for about 10 years.
I have the junipers under some shaded trees where I am misting the foliage for 2 minutes every hour. The Pines are in full sunlight and the Chinese Quince is shaded. Being in the Raleigh, NC area the weather has been pretty good (not freezing) in the last few weeks and looks good moving forward.
I have treated the Junipers with Bifen XTS twice now for spider mites (they all had some bit of infestation) and the pines with Cleary 3336 since the black pine has needle cast. I have also used Rhizotonic once them to encourage root growth.
My question is, is there anything that I should be putting on them to help them recover their health after digging them up? I have heard things like Vitamin B1, Superthrive, fish emulsion, and micronutrients…… or do I just leave them be and cross my fingers?
Here are some photos… Since the JBP is so large and I didn’t want to move it right after collection when we had some colder weather, I wrapped it in insulation.
Some nice collected trees! It sounds like you’re doing everything you should be doing. I wouldn’t give the trees anything, and I would give them time to recover and regain a balance between water and oxygen in the roots, reestablishing that root to tip connection in the foliage. Once you see new growth, you could start with a SUPER light dose of balanced organic fertilizer (but be really careful then too since there will be a bunch of new roots emerging). Hope this helps!
Vaughn Banting once told me a sure-fire way to tell if you have spider mites. He asked me “Do you have junipers?” I said I do, and he replied “You have spider mites”.
Poppycock. Plants make thiamine. Last I heard, they don’t have receptors to receive it from outside sources. The linked article states that plants treated with thiamine do worse than the control group. That brings us to the thiamine-smelling product below…
SNAKE OIL: I’ve never seen anything other than anecdotal evidence presented by the people of Superthrive or anyone else.
My own experience is that plants treated with Superthrive do worse than the control group that had no Superthrive. Which is another anecdote, as I’ve never really “published” an official study. I recommend people stop using it or never starting.
I like to dust fresh cut roots with a rooting hormone. If I didn’t bare root the tree, I dust the top of the soil and water it in. Opinions will vary greatly on this.
Ryan is very opposed to “Magic potions” so to speak like, things like superthrive for example. I don’t think something like inoculating with mycorrhizae will be harmful, but may not be necessary. I agree with him, instead just remember that proper horticulture and watering practices will be your best friend in successfully collecting a tree. In fact, our urge to “baby” our newly collected trees can actually spell there doom. In the past I have overwatered collected American hornbeams for example. I thought they were fine, they began to leaf out, and then a month later they are growing bracket fungi out of the trunk and the autopsy shows I had rotted the roots.
The biggest piece of advice I can offer from my own experience is DO NOT overwater! In fact, a collected tree with less roots or damaged roots needs far less water than a healthy tree with a dense root system. Just let the tree be a tree, it knows what it’s doing, and it will reward you for it.
Oh and on a side note, are your trees just chillin in the front yard still like in that last picture? One more piece of advice is… HIDE YOUR TREES! LOL. But no, don’t let them be visible from the street. Idiot people who know nothing of bonsai may recognize a tree as bonsai and think it is valuable or something and pick it up and run off with it. It is nonsensical, but it happens. I don’t know if they think they can pawn them or what but just be careful.
Thanks guys. I appreciate the input. The trees will only be in the open like that for another month, I have done it every year for the last 4 with no issues. The neighbors just figured I am crazy.
There is a chemical called Forbid 4F by Bayer. It is not magic but it will ERADICATE mites. The science behind it is legit. Kills all life stages of mites and has a residual toxicity. Check out the product label if you are curious or skeptical. It runs for about $200 for 8oz. I do not buy this notion that all Junipers have mites. It is a drastic over simplification. If you spray neem or something that wont kill every single egg then you will continue to have mites. DEATH TO THE BORG!
Formerly, I was from Southern California (Palmdale) in the Northern Los Angeles County on the High Desert. I sprayed each spring and fall for Spider Mites. I haven’t sprayed for them since moving to the Central Coast of California (Cayucos) in San Luis Obisbo County four years ago. I have had minimal die back on the tips of my junipers but since attending class with Ryan at Bonsai Mirai I have learned how to build a stronger bonsai. A balance of water and oxygen is key and all my trees receive two types of fertilization throughout the year. Dr Earth (LIFE) and BioGold are both used to supplement the trees health. A healthy bonsai may be able to defend itself from stress, disease, etc. not requiring any prescription medications. My trees as in my personal life I like keeping things as natural as possible. This includes supplementation and in the case for bonsai fertilization.
I believe Hans Van Meer did a trial and found that Superthrive was actually detrimental to pines. (Also, if you ever need a collecting partner for another haul that’d justify the drive…)
